Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Mark Rolofson on November 10, 2007 (redpoint)
Page Views: 3,389 total · 27/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Jul 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closure Details
Access Issue: Access now open Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Vaino Kodas & I bolted it in 2003, and it wasn't until years later that I redpointed it with Stuart Ritchie belaying me. I thought there already was info on this website about this route. I guess not.

A 5.12 start with a left heel hook past 2nd bolt leads to easier climbing. This is also the direct start to Bobsled (aka: Warsled). Gain a small ledge rest. Continue up a vertical face that becomes progessively harder. A big span from a sidepull-undercling to a crimp leads past 7th bolt. Here I was forced left below 8th bolt to Bobsled's right-facing corner. After making a move up the corner, get into a wide stem. Reach a thin seam crack with left hand & then a shallow, down-flaring fingerlock in a seam with the righthand & move back right onto the face. The crux is the next two moves with off a rounded lieback & a sloping hold. Continue with a dyno to a pocket followed by an awkward finish. To my knowledge, someone has climbed the route directly up the face past 8th bolt at 5.13b/c without stemming to the Bobsled dihedral. That individual suceeded a few months after my first free ascent. I thought I would find the info on this site. They deserve credit for being the first to climb the direct line.

Location

This route is between Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.

Protection

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Lucky Strikes.

Photos