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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson on November 10, 2007 (redpoint)
Page Views: 2,164 total · 22/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Jul 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Closure Details
Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Vaino Kodas & I bolted it in 2003, and it wasn't until years later that I redpointed it with Stuart Ritchie belaying me. I thought there already was info on this website about this route. I guess not.

A 5.12 start with a left heel hook past 2nd bolt leads to easier climbing. This is also the direct start to Bobsled (aka: Warsled). Gain a small ledge rest. Continue up a vertical face that becomes progessively harder. A big span from a sidepull-undercling to a crimp leads past 7th bolt. Here I was forced left below 8th bolt to Bobsled's right-facing corner. After making a move up the corner, get into a wide stem. Reach a thin seam crack with left hand & then a shallow, down-flaring fingerlock in a seam with the righthand & move back right onto the face. The crux is the next two moves with off a rounded lieback & a sloping hold. Continue with a dyno to a pocket followed by an awkward finish. To my knowledge, someone has climbed the route directly up the face past 8th bolt at 5.13b/c without stemming to the Bobsled dihedral. That individual suceeded a few months after my first free ascent. I thought I would find the info on this site. They deserve credit for being the first to climb the direct line.

Location

This route is between Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.

Protection

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Lucky Strikes.

Photos

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
See the comments on the Bobsled Direct Start. Jul 2, 2010
Yes, Peter, I have read these comments written in August, 2008. But there is no mention of a redpoint. Secondly, I was told by reliable sources that someone had redpointed the direct line by early 2008. Jul 14, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I am pretty sure I remember hearing that it was redpointed by a guy named Chuck who has worked at the Spot, forgetting the year though. Jul 14, 2010
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
  5.13a/b
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
  5.13a/b
Pretty fun route with a hard move down low and a sustained finish, being tall really helps. I think if you avoid the dihedral it's about 13c (pretty contrived) but otherwise sits in the 13b range. Oct 24, 2012
martin t
  5.13b
martin t  
  5.13b
At 5'8", 13b seemed about right. Loved this route! Props, Mark. Apr 2, 2016

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