Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson on November 10, 2007 (redpoint)
Page Views: 2,540 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Jul 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closure Details
Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Vaino Kodas & I bolted it in 2003, and it wasn't until years later that I redpointed it with Stuart Ritchie belaying me. I thought there already was info on this website about this route. I guess not.

A 5.12 start with a left heel hook past 2nd bolt leads to easier climbing. This is also the direct start to Bobsled (aka: Warsled). Gain a small ledge rest. Continue up a vertical face that becomes progessively harder. A big span from a sidepull-undercling to a crimp leads past 7th bolt. Here I was forced left below 8th bolt to Bobsled's right-facing corner. After making a move up the corner, get into a wide stem. Reach a thin seam crack with left hand & then a shallow, down-flaring fingerlock in a seam with the righthand & move back right onto the face. The crux is the next two moves with off a rounded lieback & a sloping hold. Continue with a dyno to a pocket followed by an awkward finish. To my knowledge, someone has climbed the route directly up the face past 8th bolt at 5.13b/c without stemming to the Bobsled dihedral. That individual suceeded a few months after my first free ascent. I thought I would find the info on this site. They deserve credit for being the first to climb the direct line.

Location

This route is between Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.

Protection

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Lucky Strikes.

Photos

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
See the comments on the Bobsled Direct Start. Jul 2, 2010
Mark Rolofson
  5.13a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.13a/b
Yes, Peter, I have read these comments written in August, 2008. But there is no mention of a redpoint. Secondly, I was told by reliable sources that someone had redpointed the direct line by early 2008. Jul 14, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I am pretty sure I remember hearing that it was redpointed by a guy named Chuck who has worked at the Spot, forgetting the year though. Jul 14, 2010
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
  5.13a/b
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
  5.13a/b
Pretty fun route with a hard move down low and a sustained finish, being tall really helps. I think if you avoid the dihedral it's about 13c (pretty contrived) but otherwise sits in the 13b range. Oct 24, 2012
martin t
  5.13b
martin t  
  5.13b
At 5'8", 13b seemed about right. Loved this route! Props, Mark. Apr 2, 2016
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.13a/b
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.13a/b
A nice route that deserves more attention. A kind of heinous boulder problem to start, then after the rest it is full value Boulder Canyon, classic face climbing. The route doesn't get climbed much, but with more ascents, the rock would clean up very nicely. If Lucid is getting slammed, check this route out. It's totally worthy and always open. Nov 16, 2018
Justin Skaare   CO
 
Great climbing, but 3 stars because the 1st huge throw is morpho, and it's uncertain how much one can use the dihedral (edit: Mark clarified, it's all on). Dec 1, 2018
Mark Rolofson
  5.13a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.13a/b
I first thought that feet only should be on to use the Bobsled dihedral, but that's a bit contrived. If you're going to use the dihedral, then use it. Even if you move fully into the corner & get a great rest, moving back out of onto the face & continuing through the crux is quite technical. Avoiding the corner entirely really ups the grade to very solid 5.13. Dec 1, 2018