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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2003
Page Views: 1,704 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 19, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Closed Details
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Description

Start just right of "Smell the Coffee" and climb up to a small overlap. Make a dicey move up a thin seam to a good ledge. Tend left up to the anchor. From the anchor, an optional second pitch is off the right, then straight up through one 5.8 move and a lot of 5.7. If you do this, rap to the top of Napster, then down.

A nice addition to the cliff.

Protection

8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 5 bolts and another 2 bolt anchor on the second pitch.
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
Nice 5.10 climbing spoiled by an awkward 5.11 clipping crux. One of those weird big-stand-up-on-one-leg with no hands moves. Then you basically are balancing on one foot, swaying in the breeze, and swinging a draw at the bolt. If this bolt were moved down about a foot (as well as the next one), then you could clip more easily and the climbing would flow better. Nov 13, 2010
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
For a nice warm up (if 5.10 is hard you that is): climb the first 4 bolts of The Daily Grind, then at the small overhang before the route gets thin along that little seam - traverse left up and over the overhang and finish on Smell the Coffee. This I thought was a decent 5.9 climb as you avoid the crux moves of both routes. Even with normal draws I didn't feel much rope drag as the two bolt lines are pretty close. You can call it Grind the Coffee or something... Nov 2, 2006
Charlie Fried
New York, NY
  5.10d
Charlie Fried   New York, NY
  5.10d
Felt like a 10d. That crux is pretty hard to move past. Jun 20, 2006
Definitely 10+ if you go straight up at the mini roof. At 6.4 I can just about reach anything, but pulling that highstep with the seam layback was pretty thin for mid 10.

We thought this and Smell the Coffee were a bit forced (also climbed Snooze Button and thought the same thing). There are definitely some cool features on each route, but linking these features within a suggested rating and trying to climb the route the way the first-ascensionists envisioned felt pretty contrived.

I have a beef with routes where a much easier variation can be had by climbing within a wingspan or so of the intended line. Why put in a 10+ sport climb in 10- territory? Such is the nature of sport climbing, I suppose.

Oops, didn't mean to rant. This was my first sport climbing visit to Boulder Canyon, and ended up feeling a bit cheated. Perhaps we'll pick a different cliff next time. Sep 6, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
I thought the route was at least 10c. Maybe I didn't approach it right, but I had a tough time with the moves on the thin face above the overlap. Jul 19, 2004
The extension is "Caffeine Buzz," which is in the database. Mar 17, 2004
Ben Mottinger    
 
Felt thin for 10b/c, but then again I'm a little out of shape for face climbing. Dec 8, 2003
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
 
A very good route. 10b/c felt right to me. Pretty continuous slab climbing between the 5th and 7th bolt. Just gotta trust that nub with your right foot at the crux. Bob, just curious, why did you switch hangers? Aug 20, 2003
5.11? Really hard slab moves over the roof. Is there a secret? Aug 20, 2003