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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002
Page Views: 2,117 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ray Snead on Nov 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


138 Opinions

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Access Closed Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Just right of Morpheus, climb up to a left-angling crack and figure out how to stand up on the large ledge. Move over a bulge to finish on a great slab.

Protection

7 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
5.10-
michalm   Boulder, CO
5.10-
I knew this was a Bob D'Antonio routem because there were at least 4 bolts right next to bomber and obvious natural gear placements. The route is quite fun... would be a 3 star lead without the unnecessary bolts. The first 4 bolts or so are reasonably placed. After that, the rest of the bolts are next to perfectly good 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75 C4 placements. The rock on this route is perfect! I might start carrying a crowbar to clean up the mess that Bobby D made. Please don't sport bolt cracks or your bolts will get chopped. Oct 11, 2016
Elijah Flenner
  5.10b
Elijah Flenner  
  5.10b
A fun route with a very thin crux. Bring your edging shoes. I found this harder than some of the other 10a-10c's on the wall but just for the one very well-protected move. Nov 16, 2013
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Great bouldery climb. Exciting moves that make you shift your hips like you're dancing on the rock. Even though the top 1/3 is uninspiring, the first 2/3 is great and worth repeating. Aug 21, 2010
Good climb. A nut or small cam may be useful before bolt #2. Jun 18, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.10b
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.10b
The bottom deserves three stars, but the the top is out of character. Sep 3, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Another fine moderate line, Wake Up Call, delivers an interesting crux after gaining a good ledge system. The move passing the second bolt can seem reachy but some inobvious foot work should make the sequence doable even for the height challenged. Very nice addition. Feb 3, 2003