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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2002
Page Views: 2,083 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Morpheus is a long right-facing corner on the left side of Plotinus Wall. Climb in from the left, clip a bolt and climb up to the start of the corner. Climb up the corner past two bolts, placed mid-size gear and a gain a ledge. Clip a bolt and make a hard move up to a small ledge and a steep headwall. Clip the first of four bolts and climb steep rock up to a two-bolt anchor. Great route!

Protection

8 bolts and mid-size gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor. Bring a 60m rope; a 50m rope isn't long enough to lower!
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
So, am I the only one who thought an all points off dyno to the little shelf out left on the arete was the way to go? After 2 tries of trying to get there statically the dyno worked really well and was super fun! Afterwards on TR, I just reached out several feet above the shelf and used the arete with the thin crack as a sidepull for my right hand (instead of the dyno). I placed 3 mid sized cams for pro, which seemed just fine. Agreed the top section is consistent and can pump you out quickly. And yes 60m rope mandatory...even with one you just barely hit the ground so be careful raping or lowering. I would give this 4 stars if it was completely sustained...as it is the plethora of rests break it up too much. Still a great climb though. Nov 3, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Lots of fun. Take a red Alien and maybe a #1 or #2 Camalot if you don't want to run out the 5.7ish corner to the crux. It was easy and I didn't really think about only having a red alien 20 feet below, but maybe it is smart to have a bigger piece.

The crux move out left to the arete was sweet. To top it off the mid 10 face at the end is a great finish! Agree with everyone else, do not climb this with anything less than 60m rope. Mar 25, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Heard from a solid source, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A 50m ROPE! Jan 15, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Kirk Woerner said: For some reason I found this REALLY hard...Do you just go for the jug or slap the [arete] a bit first?

I remember leaning out off of a decent hand hold, pasting my left foot on the wall and lunging sideways to the jug. My partner, Chuck, who is shorter, got his left foot to stick on something and did it more or less statically. Sep 10, 2004
Kirk Woerner  
 
For some reason I found this REALLY hard. I simply could not get over to the good jug out on the arette even though it was SO close. Usually at this grade I can at least do the moves after working it out but not this time, and I stayed on the low path. Was I missing a backstep or something? Do you just go for the jug or slap the [arete] a bit first?

BTW, I agree that just above the crux is a good bit of really cool juggy but pumpy and thought provoking climbing. Sep 10, 2004
Bruce Pech
  5.11b
Bruce Pech  
  5.11b
I'd call the "low" crux traverse left from the corner to the ledge .11b. But, since it's only one or two moves, .11a makes sense too.

For me, the most enjoyable climbing was on the final headwall. It's never harder than .10c(?), but consistently thought-provoking.

The 30+' corner between the 3rd and 4th bolts is well protected with two or three pieces chosen from 6 - 9 Stoppers to .75 - 1 1/2 Friends (or similarly sized Aliens, Camalots, etc.)

This and The Daily Grind are probably the two nicest climbs uphill from Sleepless in Boulder. Oct 18, 2003
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
The NW Corner of the Bastille has three variations in Rossiter's guide to do the crux headwall varying from 11b to 10c -- the left and center variations are just a couple feet apart. No one has a problem with that. Hopefully both variations for Morpheus will show up in the topo of the new guidebook. Sep 23, 2003
Greaser  
To me, the grade is just an approximation. It lets me know if I should stay away or get on it. Some days everything feels easy and some days I have to work a "red point" on the trail to the climbs. Depends on everything. Sep 15, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I thought for a little while about how to say this without sounding like a wise guy, but I think no matter how I say it, some people are going to take it that way. I am serious and not trying to start a flame war, but isn't the climb an 11a if there is an 11a way to do it and anybody doing it a harder way is just making their ascent harder, not the route? From my point of view, skipping crux holds doesn't make a route harder, it makes the ascent of it harder. Maybe I am missing what you are saying, or maybe somehow this explains the differences in the grades I've been feeling between sport or trad lately. That maybe sport grades are made on the onsight by people used to redpointing? Sep 14, 2003
BL
BL  
grade depends on how high up you are at the crux, if you are higher, it is harder, if you a lucky enough or smart enough to reach lower at the crux it is easier. This probably explains the 11a/11c opinions

Cheers

BobL Sep 14, 2003
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11c
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11c
11c felt about right for this route. Maybe I [missed] something at the crux. You can get a good #5-6 nut at the crux traverse to the left. Sep 14, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Good route that starts a little grungy and maybe loose, depending upon the path taken. The route soon improves. The other day I saw "medium gear" scribbled on a topo, so I took 1.5-3" gear. OK, so medium really meant .75"-2". With a few big stoppers and TCU's to 2" you can protect it well. It's a cool route, too.

Borderline 2*. If the bottom 30' were more like the rest, it would be a better line, but it is very worth doing.

I just have a really hard time saying that this is harder than Left Wing, let alone Pegasus, Kangaroof, or FM... I can't grade it 11c. I understand that the grades are all questionable, but the ones that have held their grade for 20+ years should be the benchmark. Jul 16, 2003
This is a nice long pitch with a variety of climbing. Between bolts 3 and 4 in the corner, I placed a few cams ranging from about a #.4 to a #1 Camalot. (I think that a #.5 and a #.75 would be particularly useful.) I also placed a finger-sized stopper in the easy-but-runout section between bolts 1 and 2.

A 60-meter rope is useful, as ours just reached back to the base of the climb while lowering, although this depends on where your belayer stands on the steeply sloping ground below the route. Oct 8, 2002