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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand, Vaino Kodas, 2002
Page Views: 2,782 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ray Snead on Nov 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Downhill from Snooze Button find a clean slab with bolts. Climb this, continue up and over a small roof, then sprint to the anchors. The crux is getting past the second bolt: straight up is significantly harder, traversing left works well, and some people seem to end up climbing a bit right instead. Excellent.

Protection

8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
If you go straight up instead of heading off to the right, this route is definitely more difficult than Mr Sandman. Fun, balance-y, reach-y and technical enough to make it interesting. Check it out and watch your feet at the first crux!

Also, if you want to make things real interesting, try a full four-limbed layback on the roof fin. Felt like I was in yoga class... forty feet off the ground. Aug 21, 2010
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10
After having done this via the left seam and straight up past the bolts (more like just right of the bolts but not wayyyyy right) they seem kind of equal. Balancy on the left seam and a high-step/throw to a crimp on the right of the bolts. Felt 5.10 both ways. There is enough rock in Boulder that I didn't need to go literally straight up the bolt line, but yes this would be harder. Definitely not the path of least resistance. Funny though coming from Washington, DC where all the local crags are tiny - there would be three variations to this climb. When you only have a few climbs to choose from you explore every option. May 29, 2008
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.9+
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.9+
I found the crux a bit deceiving like everyone else, but found traversing left to the side-pull seam to be a very natural feeling sequence. Also I highly recommend the second pitch Caffeine Buzz linked together with Smell the Coffee as one long pitch. May 8, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I liked this route a lot. A great warm up with big holds and no tough moves. Just fun the whole way and a great way to start out the day. Mar 25, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10
For a nice warm up (if 5.10 is hard you that is): climb the first 4 bolts of The Daily Grind, then at the small overhang before the route gets thin along that little seam - traverse left up and over the overhang and finish on Smell the Coffee. This I thought was a decent 5.9 climb as you avoid the crux moves of both routes. Even with normal draws I didn't feel much rope drag as the two bolt lines are pretty close. You can call it Grind the Coffee or something...The crux was a balance, "do you trust your feet" thing. It's all there you just have to find the little footholds. Felt 10 on the left seam. Nov 3, 2006
Joe Collins
  5.10c
Joe Collins  
  5.10c
We climbed this by going slightly left at the second bolt, liebacking the seam. Felt pretty hard for 10a... definitely harder than Napster or Mr. Sandman. It's tempting to even call it 10+. Oct 6, 2003
Jeff St. Pierre
  5.10b
Jeff St. Pierre  
  5.10b
OK... If this a 5.10a then Napster is definitely not a 10c. The beta photo has the 5th bolt wrong; you do not go around the small roof, you go right over it.

I would put this route at 10b/c going straight up the bolts (crux between bolts 2 and 3) as Bob intended; even with the good side-pull it is a balancy move that is hard to reach if you are shorter than me. If you go right, you are more on the start to The Daily Grind which is well-rated at 10b/c, and another fun route on this part of the wall. Aug 17, 2003
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
When this route was being developed, it was envisioned to climb it slightly left of the 2nd bolt. That was the crux, I thought some kind of 5.11. The real good handhold that you clip the 2nd bolt from did not exist in its current form. There was a loose flake on top of it, so you had to be careful how you pulled on it. When that flake came off, it made a very good hold that allows passage up and right. The farther right you go, the easier that move becomes, probably 5.9. It makes for a good route at a consistent grade. Jul 11, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Pretty good route. Going WAY right at the crux seems like the line of least resistance, as my partner did it, and we were both a little confused about the intended line. It seemed a little easy that way, but that's where all the chalk was.

Going slightly right (left hand stays in clipping range) seemed about right for the grade, and if you stayed direct, 'belly to the bolts' it seemed very hard. I wound up to do it that way, checked my head and asked "5.10a?" and then moved a little right. It will go belly-on, but it'll be mid 5.11.

Depends how you do it, can be a little easier or much harder. Jul 11, 2003