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> Lower Dream Canyon
> Plotinus Wall
> Left Side
My Buddy
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.3 from 15
votes
Routes in Left Side
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Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chore Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Daily Grind, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lucky Strikes S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Morpheus T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Opener S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tooth Fairy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 1,503 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Jul 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closure - now open
Details
From Rick Vermeil: they have finished construction on the Boulder Falls project, and it has been open to tourists and climbers for at least a couple years now. They have legitimized the climber access trail with signage to go up and over the barriers they created to prevent erosion on the west side of the canyon.
Previously: from the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.
Previously: from the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.
Access Issue: Access now open
Details
From Rick Vermeil: they have finished construction on the Boulder Falls project, and it has been open to tourists and climbers for at least a couple years now. They have legitimized the climber access trail with signage to go up and over the barriers they created to prevent erosion on the west side of the canyon.
The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods for a few years. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the landowner. Previously, climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon were trespassing.
Fortunately, with great work and cooperation, this situation seems to have been resolved peacefully.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods for a few years. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the landowner. Previously, climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon were trespassing.
Fortunately, with great work and cooperation, this situation seems to have been resolved peacefully.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - updated
Details
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Start as for "Bedtime Story" and climb up to the fourth bolt on that route. Gain a ledge and traverse left to a cold-shut. Belay here or use a long sling and climb up orange rock on good holds to a ledge. Gain the ledge and crank over a bulge and gain a near-vertical slab. Crank up the nice slab past four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
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