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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2003
Page Views: 694 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 31, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Closed Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start as for "Bedtime Story" and climb up to the fourth bolt on that route. Gain a ledge and traverse left to a cold-shut. Belay here or use a long sling and climb up orange rock on good holds to a ledge. Gain the ledge and crank over a bulge and gain a near-vertical slab. Crank up the nice slab past four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Protection

12 bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor. There is an optional belay on a ledge 40 feet up. One cold-shut and small gear for the belay.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I almost skipped this route as Rolofson gives it no stars. However, it is an OK route and worth doing if you just did "Bedtime Story". There is still a lot of lichen near the crux. Apr 20, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
A fun route, which is still a little dirty due to lack of traffic. It shares the pumpy layback start of Bedtime Story before branching off after the fourth bolt. A fun stem left at the sixth bolt, a neat bulge with good handholds up higher, and a crux slab at the top. The hardest move was at the next-to-last bolt; 10b/c seems about right. I may have skipped another hard move at the last bolt by sliding to the left.

After leading the pitch, I lowered from the anchors and my partner followed and cleaned the pitch on top-rope. It would be hard to clean the pitch while lowering or rappelling due to the traverse from the fourth to sixth bolts.

If you scramble up the loose gully to do Bedtime Story, be sure to do My Buddy as well. Oct 28, 2003