Type: Sport
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002
Page Views: 2,414 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

19 Opinions

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The Art of Dreaming starts just right of Sleepless in Boulder and climbs just below the obvious large right-leaning arch.

Climb up into a short right-facing corner. Clip the second and third bolt, traverse right across the face (technical crux) on small holds, making hard moves up to a small overhang. Tackle the roof (5.12a) and climb up beautiful rock to a two-bolt anchor.


11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Interesting climbing for the first four bolts. Getting past the second bolt is a bit snappy. Moving right might be reachy for some people. A gem at 12a. Keep up the good work. Dec 18, 2002
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
12a, you're joking A.C. The traverse after the third bolt and getting to the good holds under the roof is highly technical and merits a solid 12 b/c rating. The roof is 12a, and above is very easy. Anyway, I agree it's a great climb, especially now that it's cleaner due to the some climbing traffic. Dec 18, 2002
I'd second ac's assessment of the route's high-quality and 12a rating. Apr 19, 2003
Chris Archer
Chris Archer  
Surprisingly good. The route climbs much better than it looks. The crux is height /reach related, which may explain the differing opinions on the grade. For my size 5'8" & 0 A.I. it's 12b to the rest, followed by a fun 11a/b roof and a romp to the anchors. Feb 16, 2004
Did this route on Sunday. If you can get to the rest, the upper section is easy. At 5'7" (8") on a good day, height initially felt like a factor however, I sent the route on my second try. In contrast, I have had to work (4-8 attemps) several 12b's and 12c's outside of Boulder Canyon. May 24, 2004

I wasn't that impressed with this route, given the hype I had heard about it. Lacks an independent start, crumbly/flaky rock for the feet during the crux, the bolts through the crux are located to make the clips as awkward as possible, greasy unpleasant climbing, lowering and retrieving the draws is a pain, etc. Definitely glad to not have to do this one again.

Hard to grade as the crux is just greasy. Probably 12a during cool dry conditions but really gropy when warm and humid. The roof probably isn't even 11a (not sure how it gets described as 12a, the holds are huge and the feet are good). Mostly easy filler climbing above, which is ironically probably the best part. Aug 13, 2012
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
The original rating of this climb was .12c. I have redpointed it twice, first in 2003 & then returned in 2014 to redpoint it again. Neither time did it feel easy. It is harder than Lucky Strikes, which I repeated on the same day in 2014 that I repeated Art Of Dreaming. Art Of Dreaming is very technical with a difficult, committing clip to the 3rd bolt. I suggest hanging a medium & a long Petzl draw on the 4th bolt to clip early before the crux moves. A fall onto the 3rd bolt can land you very close to a ledge below the route. Apr 10, 2016
Boulder, CO
ScoJo   Boulder, CO
The 2nd bolt is very prone to loosening. When lowering a climber, the draw will oscillate the hanger, which probably contributes most to the loosening. I hand tightened it twice today. Should have had a wrench, but I think even then it'll keep happening. Jan 13, 2018