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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Neil Backstrom & Mark Rolofson on Nov. 9, 2007
Page Views: 476 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Closed Details
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Description

This is a 2 bolt, 5.10, direct start to "Tooth Fairy" that is more consistent with the difficulty (5.9 to 5.10) past the climb's bouldery 5.11c start. A stick clip may be useful for the 1st bolt. Climb up near vertical rock to the 1st bolt, and move right & up to 2nd bolt. Pull onto a low-angle slab, & join "Tooth Fairy" at its 3rd bolt.

Location

Start 10 feet right of the start of "Tooth Fairy" & left of the large tree that is just left of the start of "Mr. Sandman".

Protection

8 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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JoeS  
Maybe I missed something, but I thought this was stiff for 5.10. Sep 25, 2016