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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Tom Perkins, Mary Jane Golau, Vaino Kodas, 2002
Page Views: 5,584 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Just left of Golden Slumber at a pine tree is the start of Mr. Sandman. Climb up angling ramps to a bolt. Clip the bolt and make a nice move to good holds. Continue up steep rock on good holds past several bolts to a short, steep corner. Climb up the corner clipping bolts on the left to a hard move to gain a ledge and the anchor. Excellent climbing on steep rock.


10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


The route 50' left of Mr.S.. short but 3Star...Mr. S. is quite good but 5.10c? S.K. Nov 8, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Two stars for sure, at a minimum. In two trips to Plotinus Wall, I found myself running up this pleasing pitch each time. The line has fine , thoughtful movement on largely excellent rock that is well protected. And it gets good sun. This leads me to musing about good climbing. Sometime in the middle 80s Alan Watts crystallized the one thought that has driven much of climbing for two decades or more. He said that "difficulty is the objective" - and (arguably) that statement set the whole quest in motion. Frankly, it may be equally important to recognize that "esthetics is the objective". In most circles, esthetics and difficulty equate nearly perfectly, but esthetics also allows that some moderate climbing contains some of the most pleasing movement you can find on rock. Mr. Sandman offered up pleasing, esthetic movement in a nice environment without amping up the difficulty quotient. What more could you ask for? Feb 3, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I would like to add my vote of at least another star for this climb. Grade possibly 10a although given the downgrading mentality for this area, let's call it 5.8 to be on the safe side. Whatever the difficulty, certainly one of the most enjoyable moderate sport climbs in the canyon and the best warmup on the wall. Jul 2, 2003
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
I had been up to Plotinus Wall twice before, but skipped this route because of the one-star rating. What a mistake. It was reading Richard's comments that changed my mind and he is right on. This route is destined to become one of the most popular moderate sport routes in the Canyon given the high quality of the moves and rock combined with the tranquil setting away from the highway. Regarding the rating, I thought this route had no moves harder than Animation 5.9 (aka Jaycene's Dance 5.8) at Animal World, but anyone who skips this route because of the rating is missing out. Jul 9, 2003
Kreighton Bieger  
Another vote for the quality of this route here. This is indeed an excellent route on quality rock, with moves that are surprisingly aesthetic and continuous. This is one of the finer bolted routes I've ever done, bar none. Thanks to Bob and Vaino for this line.

These days I'm more inclined to see route ratings as unique to the area as much as being strictly conforming to the YDS. I.e. "an Eldo 5.9" or "a Vedauwoo 5.9" seems to mean more, if that information is available.

That said, I think this route is "a Boulder Canyon 9+". Jul 9, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Pretty good line and if nothing else, nice & long. There are a lot of good 10's at the cliff so that a 5.10 climber can make this a day's destination and do good routes all day- in which case, this should be one of them.

Pretty good route, but not the best in the area. So far, Sleepless In Boulder or Lucky Strikes seemed the best at the cliff.

The route seems easy at its grade, but a 5.9 leader might be a little tweaked on it, eh? Jul 16, 2003
Ray Snead
Ray Snead  
I first did this route shortly after it had been put up, and thought Bob's grade was right on. It has cleaned up nicely, and I found holds today that I had completely missed in the grit and lichen before. It is easier now, yes, but certainly not 5.9. Sandman is harder than a typical bolted BC 10a, and for that matter, Over the Hill. I'd call it 10a/b, and do be careful getting to the first bolt.

A two star route at a three star crag. Jul 20, 2003
Even funner than it looks from the ground, but nowhere near as hard as Over the Hill. Easier than Bolting for Glory, too. I vote 5.9, if a majority grade makes sense.

5.9 ** Jul 22, 2003
Another good climb seriously overrated. I appreciate above posts that reference rating against several other long established lines in the region. To continue that, this is easier than Hair City and West Buttress, any 5.9 on Castle Rock,... and that list could easily continue. I can't think of a lot of 5.8s that are harder around here, so in that vein I'd have to say 5.8 seems more like it. I know this is touchy ground, but keeping the rating inflation under control seems like a good idea. - Cindy Aug 29, 2003
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
Wow! I climbed this in January 2003, and maybe it's cleaned up or something since then, but back then it seemed like solid .10b or so up near the anchors. I must be missing something, but I can't see how this could possibly be 5.8! Aug 30, 2003
Ray Snead
Ray Snead  
Charles, I concur. The move left to the anchors is similar in difficulty to the cruxes on Bolt Cola or That's Weak - the closest thing we have to "reference" 10a's in BoCan. Aug 31, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
One move at the bottom, one at the top. Easy in between. Pleasant but nothing special. 5.9.

There are 10 bolts as of 10/9. There is one low to the ground that is not in the photo above. That may have been added recently? This first and possibly new bolt is unnecessary. Oct 10, 2003
Erik L Ahrn_
Erik L Ahrn_  
Excellent route, but definitely easier than 5.10c. Oct 27, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
The easiest climb at Plotinus and one of the best. It's not difficult, but the moves are esthetic and fun the whole way up. An awkward move past the second bolt seemed about 5.8. The traverse left at the last bolt looks intimidating, but seemed about 5.9 once I got into it. It could be more difficult for shorter climbers to make the reach left to good handholds, however.

A comment on quality ratings: Some people seem to find easy climbing boring and uninteresting, and give easy (or unsustained) climbs few quality stars. In my opinion, a climb with a single crux, with lots of fun easier moves, should not be downgraded in quality just because it isn't sustained at the crux level. But perhaps I enjoy easy climbing and other people don't. Oct 28, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Did this again a couple of weeks ago, this time on TR. Had a hard time at the bottom. There's not much for your hands, and if you're feet aren't just right, you get pushed out. Also thought the last move was pretty hard. Perhaps I just wasn't focused due to being on TR, or perhaps this is low 10 and not 9 as I said in a previous post Oct 10, 2004
very nice warmup, not too bolted. Go straight at the last bolt, undercling the upside down horn and reach for the jug by the anchors, then move left. I tried it both ways, seems about the same difficulty but going straight up is more fun. down below is just balance, trust your sticky rubber. Jun 8, 2005
zack s
gunnison, co
zack s   gunnison, co
5. B.E.A.U.T.I.F.U.L. Nov 25, 2008
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
Stellar, get on it! Long and varied, crazy wild moves to the anchors. Thought it was harder than Napster, but that just shows you what happens when you try to grade a climb. Aug 12, 2010
keith story
Boulder, CO
keith story   Boulder, CO
An easy 5.10 for sure. The only reason I'm sticking with the 5.10 consensus is because several moves made me think, something you don't see too often on 5.9s. A little pump and fun moves at the end. Great warm-up. Aug 21, 2010
Pascal Heger
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Pascal Heger   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Excellent warmup. I would recommend it to anyoneb visiting this area. Jun 12, 2011
Nate R
Boulder, CO
Nate R   Boulder, CO
Maybe I did it wrong, or maybe it was cold (couldn't feel fingers), or maybe I'm just lame. But I thought it was about 10c. Oct 20, 2013
Matt B
Boulder, CO
Matt B   Boulder, CO
Seemed 9+ to me, based on other climbs in BoCan and Dream Canyon in particular (seemed only a touch more difficult than Wrinkles in Time 9-, easier than other 10a's at the crag). Perhaps the last move is more cryptic than a typical 5.9, but once you find the holds, you're home free.

Regardless, this climb is STELLAR, and an awesome warm-up for the crag. Do this route! Sep 16, 2018

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