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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2001
Page Views: 1,339 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Closed Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start just right of the "Bobsled". Make a series of difficult bouldering moves past three bolts. Clip the third bolt on the Bobsled with a long sling and finish with the Bobsled. Great climbing.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.12-
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.12-
Personally I think this route barely tips the scale at 5.12. A hard entrance move leads to easier climbing and then probably mid-11 climbing on Bobsled. More like 5.12a as the entrance moves are barely V4, but, nonetheless, this climb is good with a weird finish on Bobsled. Apr 28, 2013
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Rolofson lists this start as War Sled, and escaping the line even higher as Freedom Sled.

His description of the full War on Freedom mentions stemming out to the holds on Bobsled, but I've been trying to stay the line.

Edit: I finally unlocked the stopper move and know the line will go without any use of Bobsled holds. It's an intense high step/rock up move off the slopey crimp to the high sidepull seam. Now I just gotta put it all together on lead! Aug 14, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
So, this now continues on its own independent line to the anchor above Lucky strikes for a 5.13 "War on Freedom"? Jul 9, 2008