Elevation: 7,149 ft
GPS: 40.007, -105.407 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 54,163 total · 288/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Closure Details
Access Issue: Access now open Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

L->R:

A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, 140', gear. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
LK. Opener, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
N. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
O. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
Q. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
RQ. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
TS. Lucky-Freedom , 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.

Getting There

Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Left Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 320
Mr. Sandman
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 194
Snooze Button
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 205
Wake Up Call
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 189
Smell the Coffee
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 205
Napster
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 170
Chore Boy
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 146
The Daily Grind
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 102
Golden Slumber
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 189
Sleepless in Boulder
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 47
Morpheus
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 86
Tooth Fairy
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 60
The Bobsled
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 105
Lucky Strikes
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 26
The Art of Dreaming
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 17
War On Freedom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Sandman
 320
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Snooze Button
 194
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wake Up Call
 205
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Smell the Coffee
 189
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Napster
 205
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chore Boy
 170
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Daily Grind
 146
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Golden Slumber
 102
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Sleepless in Boulder
 189
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Morpheus
 47
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Tooth Fairy
 86
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Bobsled
 60
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lucky Strikes
 105
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Art of Dreaming
 26
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
War On Freedom
 17
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
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