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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 7,149 ft
GPS: 40.007, -105.407 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,851 total · 170/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: Closure Details
Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

L->R:

A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, 140', gear. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
LK. Opener, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
N. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
O. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
Q. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
RQ. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
TS. Lucky-Freedom , 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.

Getting There

Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Left Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 221
Mr. Sandman
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 135
Wake Up Call
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 124
Snooze Button
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 126
Smell the Coffee
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 139
Napster
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 114
Chore Boy
Trad, Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 98
The Daily Grind
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 66
Golden Slumber
Trad, Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 31
Morpheus
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 113
Sleepless in Boulder
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 39
The Bobsled
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 59
Lucky Strikes
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
The Art of Dreaming
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 6
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 7
War On Freedom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Sandman
 221
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Wake Up Call
 135
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Snooze Button
 124
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Smell the Coffee
 126
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Napster
 139
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chore Boy
 114
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
The Daily Grind
 98
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Golden Slumber
 66
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Morpheus
 31
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Sleepless in Boulder
 113
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Bobsled
 39
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lucky Strikes
 59
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
The Art of Dreaming
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bobsled Direct Start aka Wa…
 6
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
War On Freedom
 7
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
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