Access Issue: Closure Details
Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

L->R:

A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, 140', gear. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
LK. Opener, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
N. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
O. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
Q. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
RQ. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
TS. Lucky-Freedom , 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.

Getting There

Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Left Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 234
Mr. Sandman
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 152
Wake Up Call
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 137
Snooze Button
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 132
Smell the Coffee
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 149
Napster
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 127
Chore Boy
Trad, Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 105
The Daily Grind
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 70
Golden Slumber
Trad, Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 35
Morpheus
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 125
Sleepless in Boulder
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 42
The Bobsled
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 64
Lucky Strikes
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 18
The Art of Dreaming
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 6
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 10
War On Freedom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Sandman
 234
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Wake Up Call
 152
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Snooze Button
 137
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Smell the Coffee
 132
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Napster
 149
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chore Boy
 127
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
The Daily Grind
 105
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Golden Slumber
 70
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Morpheus
 35
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Sleepless in Boulder
 125
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Bobsled
 42
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lucky Strikes
 64
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
The Art of Dreaming
 18
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Bobsled Direct Start aka Wa…
 6
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
War On Freedom
 10
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Left Side »

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