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Elevation: 7,149 ft
GPS: 40.00668, -105.40689
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Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Closure - now open DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

L->R:

A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, 140', gear. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
LK. Opener, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
N. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
O. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
Q. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
RQ. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
TS. Lucky-Freedom , 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: Left Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Left Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 424
Mr. Sandman
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 252
Snooze Button
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 278
Wake Up Call
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 245
Smell the Coffee
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 271
Napster
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 234
Chore Boy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 192
The Daily Grind
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 125
Golden Slumber
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 259
Sleepless in Boulder
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 59
Morpheus
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 71
The Bobsled
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 168
Lucky Strikes
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 40
The Art of Dreaming
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 23
War On Freedom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Sandman
 424
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Snooze Button
 252
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wake Up Call
 278
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Smell the Coffee
 245
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Napster
 271
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chore Boy
 234
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Daily Grind
 192
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Golden Slumber
 125
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Sleepless in Boulder
 259
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Morpheus
 59
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
The Bobsled
 71
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lucky Strikes
 168
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bobsled Direct Start aka Wa…
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Art of Dreaming
 40
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
War On Freedom
 23
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Left Side »

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