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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Access Issue: Closure Details
Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

L->R:

A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, 140', gear. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
LK. Opener, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
N. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
O. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
Q. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
RQ. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
TS. Lucky-Freedom , 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.

Getting There

Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Left Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 203
Mr. Sandman
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 127
Wake Up Call
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 116
Snooze Button
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 114
Smell the Coffee
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 124
Napster
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 104
Chore Boy
Trad, Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 90
The Daily Grind
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 62
Golden Slumber
Trad, Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 29
Morpheus
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 105
Sleepless in Boulder
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 46
The Bobsled
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 57
Lucky Strikes
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 15
The Art of Dreaming
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 6
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 7
War On Freedom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Sandman
 203
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Wake Up Call
 127
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Snooze Button
 116
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Smell the Coffee
 114
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Napster
 124
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chore Boy
 104
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
The Daily Grind
 90
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Golden Slumber
 62
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Morpheus
 29
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Sleepless in Boulder
 105
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Bobsled
 46
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lucky Strikes
 57
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
The Art of Dreaming
 15
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bobsled Direct Start aka Wa…
 6
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
War On Freedom
 7
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
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