Elevation: 7,149 ft
GPS: 40.007, -105.407 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 44,006 total · 250/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Closure Details
Access Issue: Access now open Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

L->R:

A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, 140', gear. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
LK. Opener, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
N. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
O. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
Q. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
RQ. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
TS. Lucky-Freedom , 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.

Getting There

Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Left Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 285
Mr. Sandman
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 175
Snooze Button
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 187
Wake Up Call
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 169
Smell the Coffee
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 189
Napster
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 152
Chore Boy
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 132
The Daily Grind
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 91
Golden Slumber
Trad, Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 43
Morpheus
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 167
Sleepless in Boulder
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 79
Tooth Fairy
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 53
The Bobsled
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 88
Lucky Strikes
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 22
The Art of Dreaming
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 14
War On Freedom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Sandman
 285
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Snooze Button
 175
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wake Up Call
 187
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Smell the Coffee
 169
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Napster
 189
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chore Boy
 152
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
The Daily Grind
 132
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Golden Slumber
 91
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Morpheus
 43
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Sleepless in Boulder
 167
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tooth Fairy
 79
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Bobsled
 53
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lucky Strikes
 88
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Art of Dreaming
 22
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
War On Freedom
 14
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
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