Left Side Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,149 ft |
GPS: | 40.007, -105.407 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 23,808 total · 162/month |
Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
From the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.
The Boulder Falls Trail continues to be closed to the public since the 2013 floods. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail is off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail are closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!
L->R:
A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, 140', gear. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
LK. Opener, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
N. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
O. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
Q. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
RQ. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
TS. Lucky-Freedom , 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.
L->R:
A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, 140', gear. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
LK. Opener, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
N. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
O. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
Q. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
RQ. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
TS. Lucky-Freedom , 13-, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Left Side
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
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