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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Frances Fierst, Mark Pierson, Vaino Kodas, 2003
Page Views: 1,766 total, 10/month
Shared By: Frances Fierst on Oct 28, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Closed Details
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Description

Climb either Smell the Coffee or the Daily Grind. From the anchors, climb up and to the right on the face. The crux comes right after the third bolt. Move over the slight bulge on small edges. There is nice exposure and great views from the anchors at the top.

This route can be combined with either of the two previous routes, just be sure to bring enough draws. A long draw is recommended at the bolt at the first set of anchors if you are combining these two climbs.

To get down you need either two ropes to get to the ground, or one 60 meter rope. You can reach the anchors at the top of Napster, and make a second rappel to the ground.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.8
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.8
I think the best option for a warm-up on this wall is to link Smell the Coffe with Cafeine Buzz. It's a super 160ish foot pitch. As far as getting off, I think lowering the second to the ground from the top would make the process pretty simple. May 8, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Best done as one long pitch, continuing from Smell The Coffee or The Daily Grind, thus avoiding a hanging belay. Good face climbing past the third and fourth bolts; the loose-looking flakes on the left are easily avoided.

The rappel to Napster leaves you at a small stance at the anchor; cramped for two people.The second person down can wait on the ledge just above the Napster anchor until the first person has rapped to the ground. Jul 27, 2004
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.6
I think "Standard Route" on the Elephant Buttresses is a harder route than this one, and I am really sure that the "Owl" on the Dome is not only way better but technically more difficult. I did not find much redeeming value in this thing. Jan 10, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Not knowing what this was we did this as 1 pitch as a continuation of Daily Grind. Nice enough. Didn't seem particularly loose. A good pitch for a weak second to lead if he/she can't lead the easy 10s at Plotinus (which are very easy as 10s go). To see how soft many of the ratings are at this crag, do this climb and then do Cozyhang, a classic 7 trad on The Dome (which was rated 5.5 way back!). After Cozyhang you might conclude that Caffeine Buzz is 5.5. Jan 3, 2004