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Colorado
> Boulder
> Boulder Canyon
> Lower Dream Canyon
> Plotinus Wall
> Left Side
Tooth Fairy
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 1.9 from 63
votes
Routes in Left Side
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Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Daily Grind, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Opener S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,619 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on May 12, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Closure
Details
From the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.
Access Issue: Access Closed
Details
The Boulder Falls Trail continues to be closed to the public since the 2013 floods. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail is off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail are closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
Just left of Mr. Sandman is a steep, short corner leading to a ramp and steep corner. This is Tooth Fairy. Climb the initial corner making hard moves (crux) to gain the ramp. Go right up the ramp to a steep corner. Climb steep rock up the corner past several bolts on good holds up to the anchor. Excellent and varied climbing on good rock.
Around Boulder, CO
Lakewood, CO
Anyone can downgrade. Good upgrading requires real knowledge. Mar 21, 2004
Around Boulder, CO
I remember this climb being a little dicey at the start, but protected well....but that could be my height advantage.
I highly recommend this climb to the 5.9 climber wanting to break into the 11s. It was fun and painless, two stars. Mar 29, 2004
Louisville, CO