Type: Sport
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002
Page Views: 1,619 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closure Details
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Just left of Mr. Sandman is a steep, short corner leading to a ramp and steep corner. This is Tooth Fairy. Climb the initial corner making hard moves (crux) to gain the ramp. Go right up the ramp to a steep corner. Climb steep rock up the corner past several bolts on good holds up to the anchor. Excellent and varied climbing on good rock.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Pretty good route. Two somewhat difficult moves with a sharp hold, then the route eased off to maybe 5.9, a sleeper for anyone who'd on-sight the bottom, which was well protected with easy clips. Flexibility and height help. I don't know what sequence went on the FA, but "belly to the bolts" it felt like hard 5.10/easy 5.11. Disclaimer given that I hardly ever sport climb, so local grades at this crag generally seemed a little easy. Jul 11, 2003
If you find this under your pillow be thankful your sweet uncle is a softy, 5.10+.SK. Sep 15, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Clip the second bolt and thereafter the route drops to 5.8/5.9. The runouts above are on JUGS. Seems as though the bottom can be done two ways. Straight up is a reach to a jug, but the left face has some interesting stems to a big fin and is a bit more difficult. The start is a bit sharp. Feb 28, 2004
Many wrong-headed grading comments again. 11c is correct -- actually a harder [crux than] the near-by 5.12s, but so bouldery and short-lived that there is no pump factor. Nice 5.10- climbing to the anchor when the business is over.

Anyone can downgrade. Good upgrading requires real knowledge. Mar 21, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Wrong-headed? What's next, thought crime? Big brother comes Anon coward in the night? Do I catch your logic right that it takes right thinking to upgrade, but that if you find an easy sequence to a climb and you are in fact in the majority there, that you are somehow 'wrong headed' and mentally defective? Sheesh... 11c is hard for me and this climb was a trot. Perhaps the 5.12s nearby are overgraded too, because I on-sighted a few of them as well, FOR WARM-UPS. I guess I'm wrong headed... my head is all wrong! Can someone help me get right-headed? Fix my mental defect that allowed such easy passage of this "5.11c" climb? Mar 28, 2004
Wrong thinking will be punished, right thinking will be as swiftly rewarded.

I remember this climb being a little dicey at the start, but protected well....but that could be my height advantage.

I highly recommend this climb to the 5.9 climber wanting to break into the 11s. It was fun and painless, two stars. Mar 29, 2004
The start is hard, nothing else is. Traverse above the second bolt is a little nerve wracking. Oct 24, 2004
Richard Radcliffe
Louisville, CO
 
Richard Radcliffe   Louisville, CO
 
I agree with the above comment that the rightward traverse across the roof (after making the second clip) is a little nerve-wracking. It's not steep but the feet are thin and the handholds are tenuous. I also think that the crux of this route is easier than the crux of The Scientist (11a/b). The upper part of the climb is easier and pleasant. Aug 26, 2007
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Did both of the starting variations, very different styles of climbing but felt fairly similar in difficulty, maybe 11a or so. Did the left hand start first, and found getting to the 3rd bolt (above on the slabby area) kind of daunting. Something about the orientation of the hands and feet that made it kind of insecure, despite the holds being pretty good. I didn't really snooze through that section. Once you get past that, the climbing is pretty fun. Nov 13, 2010