Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Erickson & Higbee, 1975
Page Views: 492 total, 4/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Closed Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Climb a short finger crack (crux), just right of Napster to a ledge. Get an optional belay here or continue straight up a somewhat right-trending, bushy crack and corner system, passing two old fixed pins along the way. Stepping right onto the face whenever things get bushy makes for a more pleasant outing. Belay with great care at a large tree at the top of the cliff with lots of loose rock.

Descent: the easiest descent involves traversing uphill to the tree above The Daily Grind's second pitch. A short (20') rappel takes you to the DG's anchors. With an 80m rope, you can rap 40m to the ground from here or stop at the Napster anchors.

Protection

Nuts to #3 or #3.5 Friend. If done in one pitch, doubles of #2, #2.5 and #3 are useful.

Photos

- No Photos -
Josh Q
5.10b
Josh Q  
5.10b
Lots of growth/dirt on this route and rock quality was less than ideal. Make sure belay has helmet. Didn't end up using any gear larger than #2 BD. Sep 25, 2016