Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 7,712 total · 40/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


176 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closure Details
Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a three star route that takes a direct line up the beautiful clean slab just left of "Rama" on the Plotinus Wall. Clip the first bolt and make a nice move up to the second bolt. Make a difficult move past the second bolt, then a another dicey move to reach the crack. Place the Aliens and move up over a small roof. Follow the line of bolts up the clean face to a two-bolt anchor. One of the best slab pitches in the canyon.

Protection

Eight bolts, green and blue Aliens will get you to a two-bolt anchor.
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
This route is truly one of the best slab climbs in the area. Bring one thin finger-size piece for the crack or face a fairly scary but moderate stretch for the third bolt. Superb rock and excellent climbing, only slightly marred by the last ledge. A must-do. Mar 17, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Good climb if you like small crimping. Actually, pretty good climb if you don't, but you probably won't on-sight it- because that's what kind of climb it is. I like this route, which seemed to be a cosmic premeditated revenge upon me for downgrading everything else at the cliff. You are going to 'nickle and dime' your way up the route, so take the appropriate shoes.

If you like thin climbing (Eldo climbers, think 'Gravity's Angel' or 'Prince of Darkness') and want a bolt at your chest for the crux, this is 2*'s if you don't like thin stuff, it's one.

Harder than Bobsled, Sleepless in Boulder, Tooth Fairy, etc... At 5'10" and even with a +6" ape index, I was 2" from the crux hold from the good stance, so I still had to do a significant move. I toe hooked and went sideways to hit it static with the right (wrong) hand and had to piano switch to get to the big move right. I was wearing shoes that my foot literally hangs out the side of... but I think it's hard in any shoes- maybe VERY HARD for shorter people.

If all you brought was draws and no gear- no fear. The moves above where you'd make the placement are not that hard and the distance to the next bolt is not severe. This line goes pretty mellow without any trad gear. It's still not S. I took a cam at the suggestion of a pal, but it was easier to do 5.8 move than to try to place the cam and clip it from a 5.10 stance since the bolt was just left of my feet. Jul 11, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
RE Tony's comment about the gear: If hanging off a jug and placing a small TCU feels like 5.10, the moves getting to the next bolt will definitely not feel like 5.8. This section isn't really s-rated climbing but feels a bit out of place considering the otherwise closely spaced bolts. I've done this route four or five times and consider placing the piece a lot more casual than going without. Jul 15, 2003
Craig Quincy
Louisville, CO
  5.11a
Craig Quincy   Louisville, CO
  5.11a
Slab-a-licious! Sticking in the gear in between the 2 and 3rd bolts is half the fun and quite welcome. Watch out for the loose rocks on the ledge when pulling the rope. Jul 18, 2003
TBD
  5.11b
TBD  
  5.11b
Perhaps I didn't do it as it was intended, but the fourth bolt seemed to pull me too far to the right. I moved left from the holds just over the small roof. Great climbing overall. Jul 21, 2003
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.11
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.11
Fantastic climb, thanks Bob and Vaino. I had a raging calf-pump going by the time I reached the crack (I found the moves not only thin and balancy but difficult to decipher), and I was *very* happy to plug in a cam. I didn't think the moves to the next bolt were all that moderate! I also felt the climbing was quite similar to Gravity's Angel in Eldo--slightly harder, but fewer cruxes. Aug 6, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
  5.11a/b
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
  5.11a/b
Great route. Tricky footwork gains the crux handhold. Glad to see there aren't bolts near the crack. Mar 11, 2004
Chris Malke
  5.11a
Chris Malke  
  5.11a
I think this is a great route. I really like balancy slab routes and this one definitely fits this category. I think 11a is appropriate, especially for taller people. Moving at the second bolt requires a pretty far but decent left hand crimper. I'm 5'11'' and I barely reached it. My buddy was an inch shorter and he had to add a pretty crappy foot move. Just watch it as you're going for that really big ledge just before the anchors, some loose stuff there. I ripped off a hold and took a nice 15 footer, so be careful. Otherwise, highly recommended. Jun 2, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
For the average-height or less, average-to-heavier-than-average, average-to-less-than-average climber, smearing above the good foothold, this climb will beat up your left hand fingertips and you may get some blood blisters. Ow! Bring your slippers. Nonetheless, it is an aesthetic, intriguing sport climb. Kudos to the FAists! Feb 7, 2006
SirVato
Boulder
  5.11a/b
SirVato   Boulder
  5.11a/b
Sweet Route BobD/Vaino!! I am one of those short persons, at 5'4".
I had to make a shitty left foot smear to get to the left hand crimp (it took me a couple of tries high stepping w/ the right to figure this out). Then, the move to the crack I had to let go of the rock and just teeter over 'til I could make a last second thrutch for the crack. From the ground, we thought the roof would be most difficult, but after all the slabbing down low the roof felt easy on big holds. We didn't know what this route was named or graded before we tried it. That seemed to make it much more intimidating. Before my partner went up,I said that it was probably 11a/b. Good guess I guess ;-) I think that's pretty right on!! Jun 23, 2006
Geoff Elson
  5.11a
Geoff Elson  
  5.11a
This is a classic no matter the area, it's good to see smart bolting on a route in Boulder Canyon. Toward the top there is a ledge stance which kinda takes away from this being a five star route, but the bottom 2/3 has really fun slab moves. 11a. Apr 15, 2007
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
This is one of the top slab routes in all of Boulder. This thing is amazing!! Very balancy with super tiny feet. Don't do it when it's hot or it will feel significantly harder. Amazing route, though. It keeps you on your toes to say the least.... Get 'er done!!!!! Mar 23, 2011
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
i was kind of surprised by the difficulty of this route. it has one of those stand up moves on one foot with no hands that i generally struggle with. a #1 camalot would work really well for protecting the diagonal crack. the smaller crack has some pods and some vegetation that might make it a little more tricky to get a good piece. like others have said, you could probably do without the gear, but it isn't a bad idea to go ahead and place it if you can. Jul 18, 2012
Moritz B.  
 
There is currently a stuck cam in the crack. The wires are blown out, and you canĀ“t get it out. Jan 17, 2015
Brad Gone
  5.11b/c
Brad Gone  
  5.11b/c
Not sure why you'd use "blue and green Aliens" over a bomber 0.5 Camalot placement in the horizontal/diagonal crack. Glad I brought one.

At 5'6", this route felt substantially harder than 11a. Sep 19, 2015
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10c/d
Aaron Furman   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10c/d
Could be one of the best slab climbs in the Front Range, but I don't believe this deserves the rating of 11a/b, even with placing a blue Alien, still felt along the lines of 10b/c, nonetheless, amazing climb.

Post script, not knocking the climb, I think if you are shorter this could be a more strenuous climb, but there are really incredible feet as well as great finger chips to grab on the entire way...again, I think 10b/c. Mar 28, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
One of the best slab climbs around Boulder. A real gem. On par with Bearcat goes to Hollywood and longer than with similar quality as Prince of Darkness. The bolting, unsurprisingly considering the FA, is a bit strange. The first bolt is quite low, and blowing the second clip, although easy, will land you on a ledge. The bolting at the cruxy start is a bit spaced, while the bolting up higher on easier ground is quite close. The route could easily do with half as many bolts up higher and still be safe. Why? Why is it OK to take larger falls close to the ground on harder terrain, but smaller falls higher up where it is actually safe to fall? I may never know. At least Bob didn't put a bolt next to the crack like he has on other routes in the area. Although a blue Alien/purple Mastercam works in the crack, small to medium-size nuts are even better. Jun 17, 2016