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Routes in Pin Dome

Big Sky Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Big Sky Corner S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mine All Mine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sweetest Taboo T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,845 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Big Sky Corner is the free version of the route Pin Job in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide, page 117, route 24. This is one of the best sport routes in Boulder Canyon and one best technical stemming pitches anywhere. Climb up a groove past three bolt gaining a large ledge. Clip a bolt and traverse right gainging a small ledge. Here were the fun begins. Make a series of technical moves up a steep face to a horizontal crack, make a hard move to gain the corner proper and begin forty feet of technical stemming up the beautiful corner moving left at the overhang. Continue left using small face holds and a pocket in the overhang. One last technical move lead to the anchor. Great route in a great position high above Boulder Canyon.

Protection

Ten bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

EJM
  5.12d
EJM  
  5.12d
Somewhat obscure, this really is an excellent pitch. The upper, business portion of the route stays on you right to the chains. A little flexibility would go a long ways. Apr 13, 2015
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.12d
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.12d
Mega-classic and technical; maybe the best route at the grade in Bo-Can. Kudos to Vaino and Bob... May 25, 2005
Smoky - I would recommend a smearing shoe and flexibility! The route is North-West facing so it never really gets into the sun, at least not this time of year (January). The bottom of BSC is a pile but the upper corner is cool / problematic / artful. Jan 6, 2003