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Routes in Upper Animal World

Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Upper Animal World is home to a host outoutstanding hard climbs. This is a top destination for 5.12 sport climbers in Boulder Canyon. The rock faces east and has more shade than other parts of Animal World.

Getting There

Park in the same pullout as the Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon, the large parking is on the left just after a long sweeping right turn in the road), walk up the road past the Boulderado cliff, and find the trail at the "Slow Vehicles Stay Left" sign. Follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right (look for cairns) above the Boulderado. Cross easy slabs, and go across level-ish terrain until you get to the routes of the Lower Animal World.

Pass all the routes and when they peter out, just continue east on the trail a couple hundred yards staying mostly level (don't go uphill to Middle Animal World).

L->R:

A. Krakatoa, 10, 2p, gear.
B. The Fifth World, 12, 1p, gear.
BC. The Fifth Destiny, 12+, 1p, bolts +/- gear.
C. Hands of Destiny, 12+, 2p, 60m rope req'd, gear & bolts.
D. Animal Instinct, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Sundog, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Evolution Revolution, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Global Gorilla, 12, 1-3p, 170', bolts.
H. Animal Magnetism, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
I. Animal Antagonizer, 13+?, 1p, bolts.
J. Cujo Magnetism, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Cujo Tranquilizer, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
L. Pit Bull Prowser, 13-, 1-2p, bolts.
M. Wandervogel, 11- R (crosses Cujo Tranquilizer), 2p, gear.
N. New Beginnings, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head, 11+, 3p, 150', bolts & gear.

P.? ??, 11, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Animal World

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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