Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Paul Gagner, February 1996
Page Views: 1,837 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Jul 28, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

New Beginnings is the farthest right route on Upper Animal World starting just right of Pitbull Prowser. There is a tricky move getting to the second bolt, followed by the crux in the vicinity of the fifth bolt and one more mantle move near the top. Clipping the anchors is more difficult than any other clip on the pitch. A worthy line if the other routes are occupied. A little soft on the grade I thought, but who knows anyways? At least there are no cracks with bolts next to them on this one.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
 
I would say clipping the anchors is the crux of the climb. I popped off while pulling up rope here and went for a fun (and clean) ride. This climb is easier than Global Gorilla's 1st pitch despite the harder rating. If you're looking for a warm-up on Upper Animal World (as opposed to doing something on Lower AW and then walking over), this is a good one since the hard climbing starts up high and after a couple of no-hands rests. The hard move at the 2nd bolt is really a stemming problem so it shouldn't tweak your fingers if they're not warmed up yet. Aug 1, 2002
Ken's full of bologna! You can rest as long as you want before making the crimp moves over to the anchor and clipping. It is certainly a difficult clip, but not the crux of the climb. I found the crux to be reaching the mantle hold (where I fell off) or the mantle move itself (almost fell off).

Fun climb. The hard move at the bottom is by the first bolt, I think. It is indeed a very cool stemming problem. There is also a neat liebacking section by the fourth or fifth bolt. Lots of good variety on this pitch. Aug 1, 2002
I have racked my brain for a suitable cold cut joke, but must settle for just agreeing with Ken. The clip seemed like the hardest move to me, and it is certainly very contrived not to end the route at the stance to which Bill refers. Aug 1, 2002
David A. Turner
  5.11c
David A. Turner  
  5.11c
Great route, and the grade seems accurate to me. I thought the climb had an accumulation factor, i.e. the various cruxes began to take an accumulative toll on my forearms and psyche. Even though you could take a nap on the mantle ledge, psyching up for the crimp/small foothold traverse to the anchors takes some effort, particularly if you arrive at that point with an onsight happening. May 12, 2004
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d PG13
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d PG13
Funny that nobody mentions that the first bolt is a bit high off the ground and the climbing to it is nontrivial. If you don't want to blow it and tumble another 50' down to the base of Global Gorilla, I recommend (much to my dismay) that one consider stick clipping the first bolt. The route is a good alternative to Global Gorilla if somebody is on it. Be careful if you blow it clipping the anchors; potential ankle sprain geometry. What were those guys thinking? This is Boulder Canyon after all. Oct 21, 2007
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Ric Leitner, Kirk Miller, and myself established this route at the same time as Animal Magnetism. I felt the last move was too dangerous and went up to lower our anchor. When I arrived, there were Mark Rolofson and Paul Ganer jumping our claim. Paul was the first to lead the last move, so I left the original anchor. I assumed we'd share the credit. Oops on me! Aug 14, 2018