Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: chris way
Page Views: 2,494 total · 12/month
Shared By: chris way on Jul 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The [third] route from the right.

Protection

This route climbs up past 15 bolts to lowering anchors. As described in the Boulder Canyon guide its 2 pitches and goes at 5.12A1, however I have climbed the entire route in one pitch and felt that it goes free at about 13a.

Photos

The first pitch of this route is rated 11b and is a fun route in that grade. Unfortunately, the crux comes right off the ground and involves a pretty intense crimp and a high step. A bit brutal for a warm-up. The rest of the pitch is easier, but continuous and fun. Clipping the bolts on the upper section is a bit awkward because the bolts are on one side of the arete, but the climbing is on the other. Jul 26, 2002
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.13a
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.13a
There is a very definite crux at the third bolt (of pitch 2) that seemed like it would go two ways. A huge body length dyno up and right to an angled rail or classic BoCan crystal crimping up and left. I only managed the latter, but the dyno would be spectacular. Either way it's pretty mean and punchy. Good stone, but it looked as if the second pitch doesn't see much action these days.

It's also worth noting that pitch 1 shares anchors and the last four bolts with Cujo Tranquilizer to the left. Oct 26, 2014
EJM
  5.13a
EJM  
  5.13a
Four move V7. Pretty fun actually. Jun 5, 2016