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Routes in Upper Animal World

Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Dudley Chelton, Richard Smith, 1973
Page Views: 295 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Dec 10, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is a long crack pitch on the left side of the Hands of Destiny area. It has some suspect and/or dirty rock, but otherwise it is very fun. If you like desert towers and that sort of thing, you'll enjoy this route.

Moderate climbing leads to a bulging, left-trending crack and flake system out of an alcove. (If you clip the bolt on the neighboring route before starting this section, use a long sling to reduce rope drag.) My PG-13 rating comes from the fact that you have to place gear behind some big blocks in this section. They seem solid, but you never know. When the angle eased, we stepped right, around a little prow, and face-climbed to the bolted anchor on the Fifth World. This was fun and added a brief second crux. P1 is 90'.

We did not do the 5.9 second pitch.


Finger- to hand-size nuts and cams. Doubles in the small to large hand size are nice.


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