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Routes in Upper Animal World

Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, Rick Leitner
Page Views: 3,137 total · 16/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 5, 2002 with updates from Kirk Miller
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is located between Animal Instinct and Evolution Revolution at upper AW. It features unstrenuous, technical slab and arete work. There are cruxes by bolts 4 & 6.

Rolofson rates it 12a, Rossiter 11d. I find it overall about as difficult as Animal Magnetism (11c), though a different sort of climbing.

Protection

9 bolts + anchors.

Photos

Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
This is a great climb w/ a persnickety crux on slabby, slippery granite. The final moves are exciting and somewhat unprotected on chicken heads leading up to the anchor. Definitely technical, the pump factor isn't a issue due to some good rests. Aug 15, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
Interesting, thin, and technical footwork. Moves are not 5.12, and the lower crux seemed a tad more difficult than the upper. Perfect rock, well protected and interesting. Think thin. Jun 19, 2003
Rob Bailey
  5.12a
Rob Bailey  
  5.12a
To me this root felt every bit of 5.12. The bottom crux alone, unless I am missing some beta, brought it up to this grade for me. Add the top crux, even with the good rest, and I think that this deserves to be an Animal World 12. Make sure that the sun isn't too hot when you go for the redpoint. Like Animal Instinct, sweaty hands and slimy, hot rock will kill you on this route. Mar 20, 2009
I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126.

Jesse Apr 23, 2010
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
The first crux at bolt 5 is thin but all there. After clipping bolt 5, throw to the arete on the left, lower but better than the slopers above. The second crux at bolt 7 may be the more difficult. The last bit to the anchors is a bit tense, because you're off to the left and above a bulge. Oct 2, 2010
I was on this route once or twice a couple years ago but didn't have any real recollection of it today. So, technically it wasn't an onsight, but practically it was. As such, it would be my first 12 onsight according to MP consensus standards. Super hard, slabby moves including some micro edges, technical feet, traversing, arete moves including an arete bump, etc. AWESOME!!! The first real crux comes when exiting the ledge and traversing left onto micros, feet and hands. Going to the anchors, immediately following the 2nd crux, you gotta keep it together mentally, because you finish by going to the left after the final clip. May 18, 2014

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