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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 170 ft
FA: P1: Rick Leitner and Kirk Miller Extended by: Mark Rolofson and Rick Leitner 1997
Page Views: 8,493 total, 42/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Apr 13, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Global Gorilla climbs up a prominent arete on the Upper Animal World cliff. As you are walking from the left side of the cliff to the right, the route lies on the second arete on the wall.

It starts by climbing up a thin seam in a small dihedral before moving up and right to the arete. This route is absolutely fantastic. Well-bolted on fantastic high-quality rock, every inch is enjoyable. The first [section] (often done alone without continuing on the second and third [sections]) is solid 5.11b and is a great lead. Some tricky sequences and delicate moves up an arete are sure to leave you smiling. The second and third [sections] weigh in at 5.12b/c and 5.12b respectively, and require some powerful moves up an overhanging face. If you're feeling really strong, try linking all 3 [sections] for a burly 160 feet 5.12c! Just make sure you have 2 60m ropes to get down with.

Protection

If the route is done as one pitch, it is 160 ft. long and has 24 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. It can be done in 3 pitches as well, so only 11 quickdraws are needed. The first pitch is the longest at 75 ft., so it can be done on a 50m rope.
Swavek Gaik
Superior, CO
 
Swavek Gaik   Superior, CO
 
Amazing route. Super long and varied, and although not that difficult, it leaves a big smile on your face when clipping the top anchor. Nov 6, 2017
Aaron Ramras
  5.12b
Aaron Ramras  
  5.12b
When linking the 3 pitches into 1, I only used 3 long (2ft) runners (two on the first pitch and one early on the second. I only skipped the second anchor bolts and clipped the rest of the bolts with regular draws...and I didn't have much rope drag on the finish. Mar 9, 2017
rick s  
Forgot some belay specs at the base of this climb. If anyone picked them up, can you please message me?

Thanks! Apr 22, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.12c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c
As first ascentionist of this route (and the first to guidebook it), I find it pretty bizarre to see it described as a 3 pitch climb. We never attempted this route in multi-pitch fashion, only as one long pitch. In fact, if you were to belay atop pitch 1, it would create a point of aid to rest. I can't imagine falling off with your belayer right below you to crash into. I describe each stage as lower (.11b), middle (12c) & upper (.12b/c).
I established the middle stage in 1996 & originally called it 12b. Later I realized it was much harder (.12c) than other .12b sport climbs in the canyon including ones at this crag. There is no way in hell you can call Kudjo Tranquillizer & Global Gorilla (middle) the same grade.
Later in 1996, Rick Leitner bolted the upper stage. I added the last bolt on our first attempt. It wasn't until 1997, I redpointed the entire climb.
You can lower from the climb's top back to the end of the middle (pitch 2) at the shared anchor with Animal Magnetism. Then lower to the ground with a 70 meter rope.
It also bothers me how some people who submit climbs to the website can't be bothered to give the date or year the climb was established. May 1, 2015
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
 
An 80m rope came up about 15 ft. short when linking all 3 pitches. It can be done with a little down-climbing. After cleaning all draws and lowering off of the anchor, it was just about long enough. 80m 9.4 rope. Apr 10, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route has been on my tick list to do in one monster lead for quite sometime. Just sent the entire 160 foot pitch in a single lead. I skipped a boat load of bolts on pitch one and two and used some 4 foot runners in quite a few places and had a nearly perfect rope line with little drag. Pitch 3 is full on. Very tricky. Overall, a great freaking route. Far from the hardest route I have done but definitely one of my prouder sends. For anyone who does it in one lead, I gaurantee it will bring a smile to your face when your clipping chains on this one! Get after it!!!! May 9, 2013
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.12c
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.12c
We did the full route as one pitch and were pretty certain an 80m line would get you down from the top (though didn't confirm this). Otherwise lower and re-thread at the top of p2... a 70m will take you down from there. Feb 6, 2013
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
I found the first pitch pretty good but not my favorite at BoCan. 2 stars, maybe 3. Not sure what the fuss is about. Felt 5.11...looking forward to the full send one day though. Jul 2, 2008
Jimmy Farrell
Lexington, KY
Jimmy Farrell   Lexington, KY
Wow! The first pitch alone on this climb is one of the best 11s in the canyon, but linking all 3 pitches into a 160' pitch makes it absolutely amazing. I just wanted to post a current comment that says that the "3rd pitch" seemed completely solid to me. Don't be afraid of loose flakes, I didn't find any. I also have to agree that the "3rd pitch" is the crux of the climb. Even with a great rest before it, the moves feel way harder than the "2nd pitch crux". I realize it's all relative, but I would call it 11b, 12b, 12c. Every "pitch" of this climb is 2-3 stars, but, as a whole, it is unquestionably 3 stars! Sep 12, 2007
ac
ac  
I got on the 3rd pitch of this the other day, and I would have to say that it is considerably more difficult than the supposed route crux on the 2nd pitch. However, there is a fairly sizeable scar between the 1st and 2nd bolts which may have once been a fairly crucial hold. The pitch was also unchalked, licheny, and somewhat flakey making me wonder how many ascents its seen. Watch out below if someone is on this pitch: I dislodged a credit card sized flake which nearly hit a party below. Compared to the other pitches at Upper Animal World, I would give this pitch 1 star for the climbing and 3 stars for position. I would rate the three pitches of Global Gorilla 11b, 12a/b, and 12c. Jun 22, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Clarification: in the photos I just posted, when I say "crux", I'm talking about doing just the first pitch as an 11b climb. Dec 15, 2004
Joe Collins
5.12b
Joe Collins  
5.12b
For the problem of falling on your belayer, it's best to do the first two pitches as one. Expect huge rope drag on the 2nd pitch though. We got around this by TR'ing the first pitch, then launched into the 2nd pitch with the belayer still on the ground. Jun 1, 2004
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
P2 seems a bit contrived -- a lot easier (12b) if you head hard right above the belay - staying left is 12c and you risk falling on top of your belayer. P3 is quality. Seems the vast majority do P1 and rap.... May 27, 2004
Joe Collins
5.12b
Joe Collins  
5.12b
I did the second pitch of this recently and really didn't think it was any part of 12c. I would say 12b, 2 stars. The first pitch, however, is my favorite mid-11 sport pitch in the Canyon, fully 3 stars. May 27, 2004
Only led the first pitch, but the description is right...wonderful pitch with different types of moves all the way up. From the left side of the arete, clip the bolt before committing to the move out onto the arete. A sunny day, good friends and climbing like this are what it's all about. Mar 16, 2003
No need for double 60s to get down. As it is mentioned above, there are three bolt/chain anchors on the way up over a 160' piece of rock. One could do it with a single 50m, and do three raps off. With a single 60m, you can link from the ground to the top, then thread the chains and lower to the cushy second belay ledge (all the while your second is still on the ground). Then you can either belay them up, or just pull your rope and rap (two raps to ground) and give them a go on lead. Aug 29, 2002