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Routes in Upper Animal World

Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 1,178 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 15, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route begins on the far east side of Animal World Rock. Follow the trail around the rock to the far east side of the cliff. Locate two bolts on a steep short face.

Pitch One: Climb past the bolts with hard, tricky moves on devious holds. Gain a ledge and move past the third and fourth bolts to the belay ledge.

Pitch Two: Climb up a shallow corner past bolts tending to the left at the top of the corner. Place some gear and gain a ledge below a blank-looking, blunt arete. Crank up the arete on small, insecure holds (crux) climbing to the anchor.

Rap the route to the ground.

Protection

Four bolts on the first pitch and six bolts plus some small-to-medium gear on the second pitch.

Photos

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Does anyone know where this route is? How far right of New Beginnings? May 12, 2004
Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
  5.11c
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
  5.11c
From Global Gorilla if you go right , into the forest and follow the path of least resistance (there is no trail and some bush-whacking is needed) or follow the cliff up for an equally adventurous approach. Find this route starting on the left wall of an overgrown gully with a nice rock for your belayer to sit on and a tree anchor. You might want to bring a stick-clip or some gear to protect the move up to the first bolt. The second pitch doesn't really require any gear but the bolt at the crux is difficult to clip if you are under six + feet tall (I recommend a stiffy). Also bring a wire brush and goggles. Jul 15, 2004

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