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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Horan, 1987 (trad)
Page Views: 12,024 total, 61/month
Shared By: Sven Lavransen on Aug 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This very excellent route permits you to climb in two pitches the very nice East face of the Animal World in Boulder Canyon. You may begin to climb by first getting up an easy ledge to the start of the climb. After only about 10 meters, there is the most difficult part to climb. After this, it is mostly 5.11 to arrive at the end of pitch number 1. The next section is very nice to climb at the 5.10 grade, and it has quite fine bolting for protection. For one whole week, I have trained for this route using the 4-plan. For me, to climb Hands of Destiny was to climb one of the best routes in Boulder Canyon.

This was originally climbed traditionally. It was retrobolted by Bob Horan who also added a second pitch.

Protection

This route requires that you carry many quick draws but it is not useful to carry any removable protection. We use two ropes in order to rappel from the top.
This route has given me great satisfaction for the hangdog. To prepare, I made hangdog ascents of many other Boulder Canyon 5.12s: Tell Tale Heart, Vasodilator, and Buddha Belly, but Hands of Destiny gave me the most satisfaction, because it allowed me to send the crux before providing the desired hangdog.

But seriously, awesome route. What's the deal with the fixed copperheads on this route? There is one right at the crux with a broken cable and sharp frayed ends sticking out just above one of the crux holds. I guess they are being left for historical purposes? Aug 31, 2017
adam brink
Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
adam brink   Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
Jon, I would assume Bob did it ground-up without too much fuss. When he did the FA in 1987, he was arguably one of the strongest and most prolific climbers in the U.S. Aug 27, 2017
Jon Oulton
Boulder, CO
5.12+
Jon Oulton   Boulder, CO
5.12+
Question about Bob's FA - I know it was lead on gear, but was it in a ground-up style? Aug 25, 2017
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12d
This is one of the premier lines of Boulder Canyon. A true face climbing granite testpiece. I've climbed a lot in Bo Can, and I feel like Hands of Destiny is what it's all about for Bo Can rock climbing. Feb 8, 2017
If you were climbing this route on the evening of 4/11 and left something behind, I grabbed it. Send me a message letting me know what it is that you lost, and I can get it back to you. Apr 15, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This climb is rad! Tried it a year ago and could never figure out the crux despite sending many other climbs of higher difficulty. Just returned and figured out the crux sequence in a few minutes. Pretty thin and devious face climbing with a techy crux. My advice to everyone is to do this climb when it's cloudy and cold. This wall bakes in the sun all day and is extremely hard to do when it's greasy. The crux won't even feel possible if it's hot, perhaps why I could never send it in the past. Great route, though! Don't cheat yourself by stepping out right and clipping the chains of Animal Instinct like some people do. The climb ain't over til the fat lady sings! The slab up top demands your attention. Do it and smile the whole way, the face climbing on this route is some of the best I have been on. Brilliant! Nov 10, 2012
Aeon Aki

  5.12+
Aeon Aki    
  5.12+
Great position, solid rock, and varied movement with technical and mental cruxes. Don't cut yourself short by traversing right to the Animal Instinct chains, it's not over! Some rope work would need to be done to manage the rope drag if trying to link all the way to the top but you get pretty good value after finishing P1. Classic Boulder Canyon sport climbing! Dec 6, 2010
George Squibb
Boulder, CO
  5.12d
George Squibb   Boulder, CO
  5.12d
Onsight and hanging the draws it felt closer to 12d to me (I can't really climb slabs anymore - too much time in the gym - so I had to try a little). Though not very hard, it's sort of challenging to put the puzzle together onsight. The final slab is desperate: no chalk, licheny, and I had to use my feet - thought I might blow it there! A little scary getting to the 1st bolt too...good route for BoCan. May 5, 2008
Hands of Destiny was rated 13 a/b in Rossiter's Boulder Climbs North. He lists the gear then as small stoppers, TCUs plus four pins. Just maybe it felt a little harder placing gear than it does now with all them safety clips. May 3, 2004
Joe Collins
  5.12c
Joe Collins  
  5.12c
I think the Rolofson rating of "12c/d" is about right on. The "c/d" for the height dependent nature of several moves in the crux section. Don't think you have this climb in the bag if you get through the lower section... the top seam/slab is tricky and hard. Mar 17, 2004
David Benson
  5.12c
David Benson  
  5.12c
Great line, but I'm amazed that three different guidebook authors grade it so dramatically different. Hate to say it, but this is much closer to 12c than 13a. Nov 16, 2003
I agree with Fred Knapp. There is no way this route is 13a. No move is harder than 12c, and it's not at all sustained. It is a very good route though. Oct 13, 2003
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Hands of Destiny is still intact, perhaps the broken hold above the third bolt is on the new route to the left of Hands of Destiny. This new route is still "shedding". Jul 2, 2003
Maybe I really suck, but I think a hold has been broken. I was up there recently and it was really hard to clip the third bolt. Anyone got any info? I could see a scar where a longish hold might have been to the right of the third bolt. The only hold there is now is a pinch above the bolt. Dec 1, 2002
Here is some additional info that some may find useful (regarding the route) that has nothing to do with Sven.

A 60m (200ft) rope will allow one to lower off or rappel off the 1st pitch anchors. A 50m rope won't make it to the ground. However, it would be possible to lower/rap to the anchors of Animal Instinct on the right and rap off those rings with a 50m cord.

The first bolt is about 25 ft off the ground. One can protect the easy 5.8 loose block intro without additional rope drag with a cam (1.5-2 Friend) and a long (1.5 shoulder length) sling. Although this is not necessary, I prefer to minimize the risks when possible.

After the blocky start, this route is very well bolted with easy clips. There is also some additional fixed gear that is helpful when working the moves or just hanging the draws. Hands of Destiny is excellent, with great 5.11 climbing, despite the crimp fest crux. Sep 3, 2002
13a? Dream on. This is a great route. But let's be real--it's probably 12c in bad conditions. --Fred Knapp Jul 15, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.13a
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.13a
Bob D"Antonio makes an important point here and one that came up for me while climbing in California during the last three weeks. We ran into a visiting gang of hardcore Brits who were very much aware of climbingboulder.com and spent some time contrasting it with the web site 8a.nu. What I took away from their comments was the degree to which what we write here becomes visible throughout the world. In other words our comments have become very public. For that reason, I would suggest that if you write it here comments and route descriptions should contain information and ideas that you are willing to have placed in the public view. Think twice before adding spray, sniping, and vituperative dissing of other climbers. Oct 17, 2001
Dear Sven, I think what American climbers got annoyed with is the selective nature of routes that you profiled, which all appeared to be flashes. Perhaps if you had added routes which you had more trouble on or were able to supply more helpful information than "quite fine bolting" or "short crux", people would not take offense. It's not that American climbers hate climbing, they hate what is called "spray," the gratuitous offering of info designed to make the sprayer look good. Describing a route has nothing to do with whether you flashed it and that news is of no help to someone who wants to know about the climb. It has nothing to do with where "there is more enjoyment of the climbing sport" but a lot to do with perceived attitudes and how you clearly wanted to talk only about flashed routes. I for one would be more impressed with descriptions of harder routes which require larger commitments of time and energy to succeed on. All that said, flashing Rainbow Wall is impressive. Best wishes, A. Coward Oct 17, 2001
The comment next to last was not my own. Perhaps it has been unwise to share my experience on this site. Many of the climbers in the US are very hostile to other climbers (not just myself!). Soon I am to return to my job in Bergen where I teach skiing, and I will remember my good experiences climbing in Boulder. I think it is sad that so many climbers in the US do not so much enjoy the climbing as they enjoy feeling good to be better than other climbers. In Europe, where we have very many good climbers, there is more enjoyment of the climbing sport so this has been a big surprise for me in US. Perhaps more of my US friends will learn to take pleasure in the climbing sport, then everyone will feel welcome here. Oct 16, 2001
So to be for the flashing most ready, climb if you can the 4 routes of the most similarity. And on the route not falling the moves is best. So for Vogue flash I do 4 14a flash after 4 13d flash redpoints! Oct 15, 2001
This plan is nothing. It just how my friends in Bergen and I train for the flash. For many years we feel that the flash is the best way to show that we are improved in climbing. For us to flash this takes a plan and a strategy that we call 4-plan because it is based on 4 routes taken 4 times. For illustration I can use Hands of Destiny. We pick this route to be the goal for the flash because it is a quite nice route. We train by climbing 4 routes of nearly the same level and on the same type of climbing rocks. These are not tried to flash but only to red point. When 4 are done we try the flash route where the goal is now to flash. If we do this 4 times then we go to the next higher level. If we fail in the flash then it is necessary to try again on a new choice. We feel that if we must change the climbing rocks, then it is likely to need to begin the 4-plan from the start. All of this is only so that we may focus the training and not to drift too much from the goal to improve. Some of my climbing partners can make the red point at the 5.14 grade but this needs many tries and many failures and we think that to flash is maybe a improved way to measure our success. In the last week after a long trip to Utah and to Rifle in Colorado we came back to Boulder for another training but I think many climbers in US do not want to hear this. Sep 25, 2001
Chris Archer
  5.12c/d
Chris Archer  
  5.12c/d
Good job. What's the 4-plan? Sep 25, 2001
My thanks to Alan for his kind words. My goal has not been to "spray" for my own glory but to show how hard we must work to succeed with these very nice climbs that we have done in Colorado. It is pleasing to succeed on these very excellent climbing routes. Aug 30, 2001
I see my American colleagues are fast to anger. Perhaps you should not have so much anger for my success as you should ask how much I must fail to reach my goal! With my friends in Bergen we train very hard to make the flash because we feel it is the best measurement for our climbing skill. So please do not take the offense for my success, I have had to climb so many routes for each one. Aug 29, 2001
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
Yeah, Sven, at least take a clue from the rest of us and make a nominal effort to disguise your spray as meaningful advice about the climb! Aug 29, 2001
Hey Sven, this isn't a forum for you to spray about every flash you do. We know you are a great climber, and Boulder standards are low. No need to keep telling us about it. Aug 28, 2001
This route, The Hands of Destiny, has given me a great satisfaction for the flash. We spent one week climbing in Boulder Canyon in order to prepare for this climb. Hands of Destiny was to be a good target for the preparation because it is of very good design. One can approach the difficult section with not very hard moves and so be rested before starting this part. After only 3 meters the difficulty comes again to only 5.11 (6c+) and does not again become more difficult. Our preparation allowed us to try many good climbs in Boulder Canyon, and many of these were very excellent routes. For my climbing, I feel that Hands of Destiny was the most special route of all. Our 4-plan was good, our preparation was well, The Hands of Destiny was a very excellent and nice climbing route. Aug 28, 2001