Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, Kirk Miller, Ken Trout
Page Views: 3,368 total · 17/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 5, 2002 with updates from Kirk Miller
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The pitch has two distinct sections: a desperate bulge from bolts 2-4 and a slab/face/arete the rest of the way. The first section seems a lot harder than most (all?) Boulder Canyon 12a's I have done -- might be rated 12a in Eldo. The rest of the climb is a long stretch of continuously engaging (5.10 to easy 5.11) climbing on the slab/face with a couple of moves back and forth across the arete. The upper part is quite good on its own, worth pulling on the 3rd and 4th bolts to get to (as I did). Note for those allergic to pegmatite, the upper section contains some sections thereof. The route leans to the right, so the lower off ends up well uphill of the start, at the start of Cujo Tranquilizer, alleviating any worries about descending with a 60 meter rope. The anchors are shared with Cujo Traquilizer pitch 1, creating top rope possibilities.

Location

Start just right of Animal Magnetism.

Protection

17-18 bolts + 2 anchors.

Photos

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A cool variation to this pulls the 12a crux then traverses left into Animal Magnetism... I think the guide calls in Cujo Magnetism or something like that. The crux is very technical and thin but didn't feel any harder than 12a to me. Jul 11, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12-
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12-
Seemed hard for 12a in the opening. Good hands in the lay-away start, but marginal smears for the feet. After the fourth clip things settle down to thin, thoughtful climbing in a laboratory safe environment. The best feature is probably its length. A 60 meter cord just drops you back to the base. Jun 9, 2003
TBD
 
TBD  
 
I thought this climb was very high quality. The start is tough, thin, and the feet are tricky. There was at least one 11+ section on the slab, unless I missed something. This climb requires a lot of draws, 19 including two for the anchor. A 70 M rope is helpful if you don't have someone to follow the route to clean the draws. Aug 16, 2004
Mark Ferguson
  5.12-
Mark Ferguson  
  5.12-
A Boulder Canyon route that actually feels hard for the grade. I think the crux start is very difficult and hard for the onsight. Great climb, one of the best 12-s in B Canyon. May 22, 2008
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12b
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12b
Maybe it was the specific day I was on this route, but I found it much harder than 12a compared to the other 12a's and 12b's in the area. Harder than Animal Riots Activist; harder than the second pitch of Global Gorilla, little harder than Piles of Trials, much harder than Days of Future Passed (which might not be 12a). Maybe I'll change my mind on the grade after a second go, but for now I sticking with harder than 12a, and a hard 12b. Oct 4, 2010
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Not 12a, but call it whatever you want. The first crux was a burly little section. Great route though with lots of varied climbing. I'm impressed. I overlooked this route every time I went to the upper tier but was surprised that it climbed as good as all the 4 star classics around it. Do it! May 9, 2013
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
  5.12b
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
  5.12b
The slab climbing on this rig is highly unique. I found myself getting pumped out due to the continuous squeezing and sidepulling while using crappy feet. While the intial crux is certainly harder on a move by move basis, I felt unlocking the 40 ft of continuous slab with a final 12a section was the true crux for me. Oct 27, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
I thought this route was excellent. The first 3 bolts of this route are not the most classic or fun but goes rather quickly if you can use thin liebacks. The rest of the route is AMAZING. Even if you have to clip up, I would do it. I felt that the route was in the 12a range, because it had a ton of rests and was more technical than powerful. Easy top but a little balancy. Overall, a great route! Amazing climbing!!! May 26, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12
Unpleasant, awkward, burly start (12ish) is followed by quite a bit of excellent climbing on perfect rock up higher. The slab/arete crux feels around 12- by itself. Without the opening boulder problem and with some more thoughtful/less excessive bolting, this route would deserve 4*. The golden varnished rock in the middle is some of the best in the canyon. Sep 14, 2017