Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, Kirk Miller, Ken Trout
Page Views: 4,003 total · 18/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 5, 2002 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

The pitch has two distinct sections: a desperate bulge from bolts 2-4 and a slab/face/arete the rest of the way. The first section seems a lot harder than most (all?) Boulder Canyon 12a's I have done -- might be rated 12a in Eldo. The rest of the climb is a long stretch of continuously engaging (5.10 to easy 5.11) climbing on the slab/face with a couple of moves back and forth across the arete. The upper part is quite good on its own, worth pulling on the 3rd and 4th bolts to get to (as I did). Note for those allergic to pegmatite, the upper section contains some sections thereof. The route leans to the right, so the lower off ends up well uphill of the start, at the start of Cujo Tranquilizer, alleviating any worries about descending with a 60 meter rope. The anchors are shared with Cujo Traquilizer pitch 1, creating top rope possibilities.

Location

Start just right of Animal Magnetism.

Protection

17-18 bolts + 2 anchors.

Photos

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