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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, Kirk Miller, Ken Trout
Page Views: 3,069 total, 16/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 5, 2002 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The pitch has two distinct sections: a desperate bulge from bolts 2-4 and a slab/face/arete the rest of the way. The first section seems a lot harder than most (all?) Boulder Canyon 12a's I have done -- might be rated 12a in Eldo. The rest of the climb is a long stretch of continuously engaging (5.10 to easy 5.11) climbing on the slab/face with a couple of moves back and forth across the arete. The upper part is quite good on its own, worth pulling on the 3rd and 4th bolts to get to (as I did). Note for those allergic to pegmatite, the upper section contains some sections thereof. The route leans to the right, so the lower off ends up well uphill of the start, at the start of Cujo Tranquilizer, alleviating any worries about descending with a 60 meter rope. The anchors are shared with Cujo Traquilizer pitch 1, creating top rope possibilities.

Location

Start just right of Animal Magnetism.

Protection

17-18 bolts + 2 anchors.

Photos

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michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12
Unpleasant, awkward, burly start (12ish) is followed by quite a bit of excellent climbing on perfect rock up higher. The slab/arete crux feels around 12- by itself. Without the opening boulder problem and with some more thoughtful/less excessive bolting, this route would deserve 4*. The golden varnished rock in the middle is some of the best in the canyon. Sep 14, 2017
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
I thought this route was excellent. The first 3 bolts of this route are not the most classic or fun but goes rather quickly if you can use thin liebacks. The rest of the route is AMAZING. Even if you have to clip up, I would do it. I felt that the route was in the 12a range, because it had a ton of rests and was more technical than powerful. Easy top but a little balancy. Overall, a great route! Amazing climbing!!! May 26, 2015
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
  5.12b
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
  5.12b
The slab climbing on this rig is highly unique. I found myself getting pumped out due to the continuous squeezing and sidepulling while using crappy feet. While the intial crux is certainly harder on a move by move basis, I felt unlocking the 40 ft of continuous slab with a final 12a section was the true crux for me. Oct 27, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Not 12a, but call it whatever you want. The first crux was a burly little section. Great route though with lots of varied climbing. I'm impressed. I overlooked this route every time I went to the upper tier but was surprised that it climbed as good as all the 4 star classics around it. Do it! May 9, 2013
Elijah Flenner
  5.12b
Elijah Flenner  
  5.12b
Maybe it was the specific day I was on this route, but I found it much harder than 12a compared to the other 12a's and 12b's in the area. Harder than Animal Riots Activist; harder than the second pitch of Global Gorilla, little harder than Piles of Trials, much harder than Days of Future Passed (which might not be 12a). Maybe I'll change my mind on the grade after a second go, but for now I sticking with harder than 12a, and a hard 12b. Oct 4, 2010
Mark Ferguson
  5.12-
Mark Ferguson  
  5.12-
A Boulder Canyon route that actually feels hard for the grade. I think the crux start is very difficult and hard for the onsight. Great climb, one of the best 12-s in B Canyon. May 22, 2008
TBD
 
TBD  
 
I thought this climb was very high quality. The start is tough, thin, and the feet are tricky. There was at least one 11+ section on the slab, unless I missed something. This climb requires a lot of draws, 19 including two for the anchor. A 70 M rope is helpful if you don't have someone to follow the route to clean the draws. Aug 16, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12-
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12-
Seemed hard for 12a in the opening. Good hands in the lay-away start, but marginal smears for the feet. After the fourth clip things settle down to thin, thoughtful climbing in a laboratory safe environment. The best feature is probably its length. A 60 meter cord just drops you back to the base. Jun 9, 2003
A cool variation to this pulls the 12a crux then traverses left into Animal Magnetism... I think the guide calls in Cujo Magnetism or something like that. The crux is very technical and thin but didn't feel any harder than 12a to me. Jul 11, 2002