Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 39.997, -105.414 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,739 total · 185/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

It appears that Vampire Rock does not see many visitors. The access trail is subtle, and much of the rock has lichen. That said, there are a number of multi-pitch trad & sport routes that offer a challenge. This was once the site of ice & rock climber conflict which effectively assisted ending the ice farming days of Boulder Canyon.

L->R:

A. Climb Eye Knight, 12, 3p, bolts, P1 10.

AA. The Bureau, 12, 1-3p, bolts & gear.

B. The Wanker, 12, 3p, bolts.

BB. Nothing But Trouble, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.

C1. A.C.E., 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.

C2. Monkey's Uncle, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.

C3. Monkey's Sister, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

E. Red Sonja, 7, 2p, gear.

F. Transylverlina, 12, 4p, bolts, P1 9.

G. Heart Of The Narrows, 12b, 2p, bolts, P1 10.

H. B.C. 8, 1p?, gear.

I. Chupacabra, 10+, 2p, 140', gear.

JI. The Politician, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

K1. That's Weak, 10, 1p, bolts.

above K. The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, 12-, 2p, 150', bolts & gear.

K2. 3Ts, 12, 2p, var., bolts.

L. The Vampire, 9, 4p, 350', gear.

above L1. Crack Of Desperation, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.

above L2. Trash It And Move On, 11, 2p, 170', bolts & gear.

above L3. Stage Fright, 11-, 2p, 160', gear.

M. Pin Cushion, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts.

above M. Blood Doll, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.

N. One Withered Arm, 9, 1p, gear.

O. Fear of Sunlight, 1p, 11+, 70', bolts.

P. Le Stat, 11+, 2p, 140', bolts.

PP. Fear of Le Stat, 1p var, 11-, bolts.

The crag betweeen Vampire and Black Widow

A. 10, 1p, bolts & gear.

B. Orange You Lichen It?, 11- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.

Getting There

About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. Vampire Rock is about 100 yards back, on the opposite side of the river. Cross the creek where appropriate, and try to hug the creek to find the trail. Note, the large gully that runs down the right side of Vampire Rock. When in line with that, find the trail and hike up the gully. Once at the base of the rock, there is an imperfect but present trail that hugs the base of the cliff.

Descent

You can descend in a loose gully between Vampire & Black Widow Slab to the right. It does involve 3rd class scrambling.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vampire Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 161
That's Weak
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Crack of Desperation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 89
The Politician
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Climb-Eye-Knight
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Chupacabra
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 67
Monkey's Uncle
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Trash It and Move On
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 46
The Bureau (Pitch 1)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 107
The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 41
Le Stat
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 41
Wanker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 44
Heart of the Narrows
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
That's Weak
 161
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Crack of Desperation
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Politician
 89
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Climb-Eye-Knight
 22
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chupacabra
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Monkey's Uncle
 67
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Trash It and Move On
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
The Bureau (Pitch 1)
 46
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Good, The Bad, and The…
 107
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Le Stat
 41
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Wanker
 41
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Heart of the Narrows
 44
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Vampire Rock »

Sun & Shade

Details: On 7/25 the sun hit the base of the right side of the crag (starting at Transylverina) at around 1:30pm. The sun hit the base of the left side of the crag (to Monkey's Sister) at around 3pm.

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