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Elevation: 7,400 ft 2,256 m
GPS: 39.997, -105.4139
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 56,110 total · 196/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

It appears that Vampire Rock does not see many visitors. The access trail is subtle, and much of the rock has lichen. That said, there are a number of multi-pitch trad & sport routes that offer a challenge. This was once the site of ice & rock climber conflict which effectively assisted ending the ice farming days of Boulder Canyon.

L->R:

A. Climb Eye Knight, 12, 3p, bolts, P1 10.

AA. The Bureau, 12, 1-3p, bolts & gear.

B. The Wanker, 12, 3p, bolts or Wanker (upper), 1p, 90', bolts.

BB. Nothing But Trouble, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.

C1. A.C.E., 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.

C2. Monkey's Uncle, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.

C3. Monkey's Sister, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

E. Red Sonja, 7, 2-3p, gear.

F. Transylverlina, 12, 4p, bolts, P1 9.

G. Heart Of The Narrows, 12b, 2p, bolts, P1 10.

H. B.C. 8, 1p?, gear.

I. Chupacabra, 10+, 2p, 140', gear.

JI. The Politician, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

K1. That's Weak, 10, 1p, bolts.

above K. The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, 12-, 2p, 150', bolts & gear.

K2. Old Scraggs and His Mud Bags, 12, 2p, var., bolts.

L. The Vampire, 9, 4p, 350', gear.

above L1. Crack Of Desperation, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.

above L2. Trash It And Move On, 11, 2p, 170', bolts & gear.

above L3. Stage Fright, 11-, 2p, 160', gear.

M. Pin Cushion, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts.

above M. Blood Doll, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.

N. One Withered Arm, 9, 1p, gear.

O. Fear of Sunlight, 1p, 11+, 70', bolts.

P. Le Stat, 11+, 2p, 140', bolts.

PP. Fear of Le Stat, 1p var, 11-, bolts.

The crag betweeen Vampire and Black Widow

A. 10, 1p, bolts & gear.

B. Orange You Lichen It?, 11- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.

Getting There Suggest change

About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. Vampire Rock is about 100 yards back, on the opposite side of the river. Cross the creek where appropriate, and try to hug the creek to find the trail. Note, the large gully that runs down the right side of Vampire Rock. When in line with that, find the trail and hike up the gully. Once at the base of the rock, there is an imperfect but present trail that hugs the base of the cliff.

Descent

Suggest change
You can descend in a loose gully between Vampire & Black Widow Slab to the right. It does involve 3rd class scrambling.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Vampire Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Vampire Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 196
That's Weak
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Crack of Desperation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 129
The Politician
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 35
Climb-Eye-Knight
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Chupacabra
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 76
Monkey's Uncle
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Stage Fright
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Trash It and Move On
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 64
The Bureau (Pitch 1)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 134
The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Le Stat
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 58
Wanker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 47
Heart of the Narrows
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
That's Weak
 196
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Crack of Desperation
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Politician
 129
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Climb-Eye-Knight
 35
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Chupacabra
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Monkey's Uncle
 76
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Stage Fright
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Trash It and Move On
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
The Bureau (Pitch 1)
 64
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Good, The Bad, and The…
 134
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Le Stat
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Wanker
 58
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Heart of the Narrows
 47
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Vampire Rock »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Details: On 7/25 the sun hit the base of the right side of the crag (starting at Transylverina) at around 1:30pm. The sun hit the base of the left side of the crag (to Monkey's Sister) at around 3pm.

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