Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 39.997, -105.414 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,711 total · 161/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

It appears that Vampire Rock does not see many visitors. The access trail is subtle, and much of the rock has lichen. That said, there are a number of multi-pitch trad & sport routes that offer a challenge. This was once the site of ice & rock climber conflict which effectively assisted ending the ice farming days of Boulder Canyon.

L->R:

A. Climb Eye Knight, 12, 3p, bolts, P1 10.

AA. The Bureau, 12, 1-3p, bolts & gear.

B. The Wanker, 12, 3p, bolts.

BB. Nothing But Trouble, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.

C1. A.C.E., 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.

C2. Monkey's Uncle, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.

C3. Monkey's Sister, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

E. Red Sonja, 7, 2p, gear.

F. Transylverlina, 12, 4p, bolts, P1 9.

G. Heart Of The Narrows, 12b, 2p, bolts, P1 10.

H. B.C. 8, 1p?, gear.

I. Chupacabra, 10+, 2p, 140', gear.

JI. The Politician, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

K. That's Weak, 10, 1p, bolts.

above K. The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, 12-, 2p, 150', bolts & gear.

L. The Vampire, 9, 4p, 350', gear.

above L1. Crack Of Desperation, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.

above L2. Trash It And Move On, 11, 2p, 170', bolts & gear.

above L3. Stage Fright, 11-, 2p, 160', gear.

M. Pin Cushion, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts.

above M. Blood Doll, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.

N. One Withered Arm, 9, 1p, gear.

O. Fear of Sunlight, 1p, 11+, 70', bolts.

P. Le Stat, 11+, 2p, 140', bolts.

PP. Fear of Le Stat, 1p var, 11-, bolts.

The crag betweeen Vampire and Black Widow

A. 10, 1p, bolts & gear.

B. Orange You Lichen It?, 11- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.

Getting There

About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. Vampire Rock is about 100 yards back, on the opposite side of the river. Cross the creek where appropriate, and try to hug the creek to find the trail. Note, the large gully that runs down the right side of Vampire Rock. When in line with that, find the trail and hike up the gully. Once at the base of the rock, there is an imperfect but present trail that hugs the base of the cliff.

Descent

You can descend in a loose gully between Vampire & Black Widow Slab to the right. It does involve 3rd class scrambling.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vampire Rock

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