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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 39.997, -105.414 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 22,875 total, 111/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

It appears that Vampire Rock does not see many visitors. The access trail is subtle, and much of the rock has lichen. That said, there are a number of multi-pitch trad & sport routes that offer a challenge. This was once the site of ice & rock climber conflict which effectively assisted ending the ice farming days of Boulder Canyon.

L->R:

A. Climb Eye Knight, 12, 3p, bolts, P1 10.
AA. The Bureau, 12, 1-3p, bolts & gear.
B. The Wanker, 12, 3p, bolts.
BB. Nothing But Trouble, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
C1. A.C.E., 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
C2. Monkey's Uncle, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
C3. Monkey's Sister, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Red Sonja, 7, 2p, gear.
F. Transylverlina, 12, 4p, bolts, P1 9.
G. Heart Of The Narrows, 12b, 2p, bolts, P1 10.
H. B.C. 8, 1p?, gear.
I. Chupacabra, 10+, 2p, 140', gear.
JI. The Politician, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
K. That's Weak, 10, 1p, bolts.
above K. The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, 12-, 2p, 150', bolts & gear.
L. The Vampire, 9, 4p, 350', gear.
above L1. Crack Of Desperation, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
above L2. Trash It And Move On, 11, 2p, 170', bolts & gear.
above L3. Stage Fright, 11-, 2p, 160', gear.
M. Pin Cushion, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts.
above M. Blood Doll, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
N. One Withered Arm, 9, 1p, gear.
O. Fear of Sunlight, 1p, 11+, 70', bolts.
P. Le Stat, 11+, 2p, 140', bolts.
PP. Fear of Le Stat, 1p var, 11-, bolts.

Crag betweeen Vampire and Black Widow

A. 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
B. Orange You Lichen It?, 11- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. Vampire Rock is about 100 yards back, on the opposite side of the river. Cross the creek where appropriate, and try to hug the creek to find the trail. Note, the large gully that runs down the right side of Vampire Rock. When in line with that, find the trail and hike up the gully. Once at the base of the rock, there is an imperfect but present trail that hugs the base of the cliff.

Descent

You can descend in a loose gully between Vampire & Black Widow Slab to the right. It does involve 3rd class scrambling.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vampire Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
I may have lost a GriGri2 (orange) here a few weeks ago. If anyone finds it, I would be eternally grateful if you could get it back to me! Thanks, Scotty Jun 8, 2012
We replaced the tyrol tonight (thanks for the help Kevin V.!). The old rope junk-show of an anchor with it's multiple core-shots from rubbing on the rock has been upgraded with chain to help it last a bit longer.

There are two strands of static that should keep you well out of the creek. The rope was donated by fellow MP'ers. Thanks everyone!

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol is directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field. As you get near the crag you will pick up a trail that runs left across the base of the crag. Jun 10, 2011
Has anyone had problems finding the walk off? I did "The Vampire" today, and had a hell of a time finding it. Actually, I don't think we ever did. Eventually, we made it down, but it wasn't exactly a trail. The Rossiter guide made it sound obvious and easy to find. I didn't find that to be the case. Apr 22, 2006
D Bueno  
In 1981, a climbing partner of mine asked me to go up the canyon and climb on this rock. I was busy and could not go. It turned out to be very fortuitous as he went with his girlfriend and found a decomposing corpse at the base of the route. Apparently, this poor bloke had been up there for some time and was very advanced in his decomposition. Dave said that he was still wearing his EBs and there was a chalk bag attached to his belt. Would suggest taking a rope if you climb here as the rock is very slick with lichen and there are some very loose holds. May 12, 2005

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