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The Watermark Rock Climbing
Routes in The Watermark
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Dark Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Glennevere S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lothlorien S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Memory of Trees, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Minas Tireth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Road to Isengard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Second Breakfast T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Twin Cracks Left T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks Right T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Peaks S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 7,251 ft | 2,210 m |
| GPS: |
39.9983, -105.413 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 55,567 total · 191/month | |
| Shared By: | Zach Roth on Dec 31, 2000 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The Watermark is a small west-facing crag just above the creek, between Avalon and Vampire Rock. It is a cool spot to climb on a hot summer day. Moderate sport routes with slabs and a few roofs characterize the climbing here.
Many of these routes are around 5.8 and are good for first outside leads. Bring a 60m rope, because two routes in the middle of the crag need it (Memory of Trees and Road to Isengard).
The routes L->R:
A. Dark Tower, 6, 1p, trad. Arete.
B1. Twin Cracks Left, 9-, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
B2. Twin Peaks, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B3. Twin Cracks Right, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
C. Glennevere, 8, 1p, 65', bolts. Slab, overhang, & headwall.
D. The Memory of Trees, 9, 1p, 100', bolts. Slab to overhangs.
E. Road to Isengard, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.
F. Minas Tireth, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts. Slab to overhang.
G. Second Breakfast, 5 PG-13, 1p, 85', gear.
H. Lothlorien, 8, 1p, 80', bolts. Center of slab.
Many of these routes are around 5.8 and are good for first outside leads. Bring a 60m rope, because two routes in the middle of the crag need it (Memory of Trees and Road to Isengard).
The routes L->R:
A. Dark Tower, 6, 1p, trad. Arete.
B1. Twin Cracks Left, 9-, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
B2. Twin Peaks, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
B3. Twin Cracks Right, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
C. Glennevere, 8, 1p, 65', bolts. Slab, overhang, & headwall.
D. The Memory of Trees, 9, 1p, 100', bolts. Slab to overhangs.
E. Road to Isengard, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.
F. Minas Tireth, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts. Slab to overhang.
G. Second Breakfast, 5 PG-13, 1p, 85', gear.
H. Lothlorien, 8, 1p, 80', bolts. Center of slab.
Getting There
On the left side of the road, across the creek, about 100' above the creek. As you are going up Boulder Canyon it is between Avalon and Vampire Rock.
Park at the small pullout for Avalon at 8.2 miles on the right, or continue up to the larger pullout for the Boulderado and Animal World at 8.4 miles on the left. If you park at the Avalon pullout, cross the road and walk 45 yards upstream to the Avalon Tyrolean. If you park at the upper pullout, you'll have to walk downstream about 300 yards to reach the crag.
There are several ways to cross the creek to reach the crag:
1. Cross the creek using the Avalon Tyrolean, then head upstream (right) across the talus to a climber's path which leads to the crag.
2. If the water level is low enough, cross the creek using a handline which may be present a little ways upstream from the crag.
3. If the water level is really low, cross the creek at a convenient spot below the crag and find a climber's path up the hill to the crag.
Park at the small pullout for Avalon at 8.2 miles on the right, or continue up to the larger pullout for the Boulderado and Animal World at 8.4 miles on the left. If you park at the Avalon pullout, cross the road and walk 45 yards upstream to the Avalon Tyrolean. If you park at the upper pullout, you'll have to walk downstream about 300 yards to reach the crag.
There are several ways to cross the creek to reach the crag:
1. Cross the creek using the Avalon Tyrolean, then head upstream (right) across the talus to a climber's path which leads to the crag.
2. If the water level is low enough, cross the creek using a handline which may be present a little ways upstream from the crag.
3. If the water level is really low, cross the creek at a convenient spot below the crag and find a climber's path up the hill to the crag.
Trails
Please stay on trails when wandering about at this crag. The popularity of this crag has led to erosion of unforseen magnitude. There is now a trail going eastward above the cliff to connect with Avalon at the Second Tier level. Hard work on the part of concerned climbers has helped mitigate this erosion. Thanks!
Classic Climbing Routes at The Watermark
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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