Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Watermark

Dark Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Glennevere S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lothlorien S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Memory of Trees, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minas Tireth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road to Isengard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Cracks Left T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks Right T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Peaks S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, 2005
Page Views: 3,179 total, 19/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Mar 30, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


117 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a short route that climbs an arete and a roof between Road to Isengard and Lothlorien. About 15' of hard climbing on slightly crumbly rock.

Start in the same spot as for Road to Isengard. Move up and right to a slab. It's a long way to the first bolt, but the climbing is easy. You might want to clip the first bolt on Road to Isengard and then move right. Clip two bolts on the slab and continue up to a steep headwall. Work up the left arete and move right onto a slab below the roof (crux). Clip the last bolt above the roof and turn the roof on the right. The 2-bolt anchor is just above.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Meh, 1 or 2 hard moves, and the rest is way easier. Overall okay route. Jun 3, 2013
Paul-B
  5.10-
Paul-B  
  5.10-
Fun route, but it really seemed to be a one (2?) move wonder. The roof is sequency and challenging, if you use the holds on the left face. I thought it was 10a, unfortunately, the rest of the climb is an easy 8 or less. Aug 11, 2012
Joshua Kaiser
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Kaiser   Boulder, CO
 
Beware of loose rock. A couple climbing this last night went a little further right than the route was intended and pulled down a pretty decent chunk of granite. Scared the @#$! out of me, but nobody was hurt. Aug 27, 2010
Robby Cribbs
Boulder, CO
 
Robby Cribbs   Boulder, CO
 
Crux is very well protected. Try the toe hook under the ledge to move into the crux move. Although it wasn't a tall climb, it was definitely a fun one. May 15, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a
Sort and suite. Very sequency at the crux. May 31, 2008
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Actually a fun little climb. And for what it is worth, I found the route probably also goes around 5.10a by staying on the left arete and up over the overhang. Jul 20, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
This route is "Minas TirEth" 10a on Richard Rossiter's website:
boulderclimbs.com/watermark… Aug 27, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The crux is moving right onto the slab under the roof; turning the roof past the final bolt is much easier. Beta: there's a good hold on the left edge of the roof; you just have to work high enough to reach it.

When you lower, leave the last bolt below the roof clipped if your partner is top-roping. This will keep the rope from running across a sharp edge on the roof should your partner fall at the crux. Jul 13, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
The interesting move over the roof merits a star. Jul 4, 2004
Cisco  
I climbed this last week and to me it felt a lot easier than 10c, maybe 10a. Apr 3, 2004