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Routes in The Watermark

Dark Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Glennevere S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lothlorien S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Memory of Trees, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minas Tireth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road to Isengard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Cracks Left T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks Right T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Peaks S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, free solo-ed and retro bolted
Page Views: 4,792 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jeremy Smith on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the farthest right of the routes. Scramble up the hillside from the creek about 50 feet to the base of the crag. The route, named after an enchanted forest in "The Lord of the Rings", follows five bolts up a great slab, with perfect, 2 pad deep incuts up its length. This is a great beginner lead, with the bolts just far apart enough to give one a little thrill, yet easy enough to clip from stable stances. It is one of the better 5.8s I've climbed when looked at in this manner. The route tops out on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Dale Haas and I took a wrench up on this climb today to address the loose 3rd bolt. It turns out that the bolt is fine. It is a 1/2" Powers "5-piece" bolt that is properly tightened. The hanger does move a bit, but that is not a safety issue, IMHO. Sep 21, 2017
Jesse El  
 
Bolt #3 was loose, able to spin! Sep 10, 2017
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.7
Fun route with very positive holds all the way up. Bolting is great, if you're a solid 5.7 leader, you'll be fine. Jun 3, 2013
James Weckbaugh
Denver, CO
 
James Weckbaugh   Denver, CO
 
Say, this is a solid 7. Nov 6, 2012
As a fairly new leader, I felt the bolt spacing was well thought out. This is not a 5.6/5.7 gym climb. The bolts are run out for the grade and in all reality that is what bumps this from a 6 to a 7. A nice climb in a nice area. Don't go on weekends like we did; it felt like a gym. Jun 24, 2012
S. F. Pitman
Boulder, CO
  5.7
S. F. Pitman   Boulder, CO
  5.7
I agree with Apgar. Pretty cool slab at the grade, and very consistent. Being pretty short it offered me a couple of cool chances to make dynamic reaches (extra fun considering I was soloing). Jul 17, 2010
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
I'm not sure why this route doesn't have a higher star average. I'm not sure what more you could ask for from a slab route at the 5.7 grade. The rock is super clean and solid; the climbing is consistent throughout. It's certainly worth coming to the watermark just to get on this one route. Cheers, BA Mar 21, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
I think this one could be traditionally protected with some lightweight runouts. May 31, 2008
Merlin
Grand Junction
5.6
Merlin   Grand Junction
5.6
Maybe it is because it is a sport climb, but if the 1st pitch of the First Flatiron Direct route is 5.6 and Frictionary at Sport Park is 5.7, then there is no way this is any harder than 5.6. Aug 24, 2006
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
5.7
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
5.7
Perhaps, 5.7 with a little run out. Jun 18, 2006
Cisco  
No way!!! this can be 5.8, maybe 5.7 Mar 28, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
  5.7
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
  5.7
The route is relatively nice and clean, and all the holds are positive. No need for any smearing on this slab. Oct 19, 2003
Now the route sports *five* bolts and a two bolt anchor. It is good fun, but I wouldn't call it a great beginner route. It is a low-angle and very positive, but the five bolts protect a 25m pitch - you do the math... I suspect that most gym-bred beginners will not be happy with the potential tumbling falls. A competent Eldo 5.8 leader, no problem. Jun 3, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Two new bolts at the top of the slab replace the tree anchors for an even better time. A very fun climb with nicely spaced bolts. Michael Walker Jul 20, 2001