Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, 1996
Page Views: 6,558 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jeremy Smith on Jul 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

224 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details


This is the route to the left of Road to Isengard, beginning at the base of the arete. Climb past two bolts to the first of two small roofs. Clip the third bolt before turning the roof. You can turn the roof on the left side or the right side/straight up; the left side might be a bit easier. Climb an easy slab to a second roof. Turn this smaller roof on the right and finish up past 2 more bolts. The climb tops out on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Road to Isengard).


9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 60m rope is needed to lower. A longer runner on the second bolt will keep down rope drag.


Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Two bolt anchor at the top eliminates need for tree anchors (perhaps now it is aptly named?). Also, more bolts made this a fine lead without gear. Much like Lothlorien, with roomy placements (a fifth bolt before the anchors on that one too!). Finally, another bolt route on the right shares same anchor with Memory. Michael Walker Jul 27, 2001
This is actually a pretty good route, and makes the crag worth visiting. The first roof is certainly easier on the left, and the second one goes elegantly straight up or more easily on the right. Jun 3, 2002
As of 6/5/02 this route has nine bolts, though only six are easily visible from the ground. Two long draws for the bolts below the roofs will prevent rope drag at the top. Jun 6, 2002
Brian Weinstein
Brian Weinstein  
Three stars narrowly averted for a [Boulder Canyon] moderate sport route. Aug 25, 2004
[The] unknown climber on [Ron Olsen's] picture from [August] 27 is none other than Brent Pohlmann, who has the distinction of swimming from Alcatraz Island to San Francisco WITHOUT a wetsuit more times than anyone else in Boulder......13 to be exact, including 3 roundtrips and 2 on New Year's Day. Aug 28, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Best route of the area. Couple of fun roofs and some nice exposure if you stick with arete. The anchor is quite far right. If you top rope it, you will probably want to leave a quick draw in the bolt above the first roof. A fall there would otherwise probably swing you into the rock to your right. 5.9. Jun 18, 2006
One of the nicest 9s in the canyon. Worth a trip to Watermark for this and Twin Peaks. Sometimes crowded on summer days. Needs almost all of a 60m rope. Apr 24, 2008
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
Nice route, but a bit of a one move wonder. May 31, 2008
George Barnes
Westminster, CO
George Barnes   Westminster, CO
Fun route. As of 10-13-11 a lot of the bolt hangers were spinners, though the anchor bolts seemed OK. Might want to bring a wrench. Oct 13, 2011
Boulder, CO
JJR   Boulder, CO
Best route at the crag I'd say. Wouldn't recommend coming to Watermark just for this one, but if you're around there go ahead and do it, it's fun. Jun 12, 2012