Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Glennis Walters, 2000
Page Views: 3,867 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jake Wyatt on May 18, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


182 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a sport line just around the corner to the left of The Memory of Trees. It is the right of two lines on this steeper buttress, and starts in the same spot as Twin Peaks, the route to the left. It looks harder than it is.

Move up, clip a bolt, move into the pod, wiggle left, up left of the cavity/roof, find bigger holds than you would expect, and pull right over the roof. Fire past a few bolts on to a steeper headwall. Here you can move right (easier) or left (slightly harder) and then find a optional fist jam to the 2-bolt anchor in a little pod.

The upper headwall is a wee bit fractured and a mite lichen covered currently, but it may improve with age.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8-
I agree with the comments expressed. I did it yesterday with no knowledge of the climb other than that I saw the line. I guessed 5.9 and thought it was pretty junky. I'd put it in the "don't bother" category.

I'd have given it the bomb. Jun 3, 2002
I climbed it yesterday without knowing anything about it. I rated it 5.7, and my climbing partner called it 5.8. I thought it made for a good warm up and was worth doing. Jul 17, 2002
Spooky rock. Per RR: "Glennevere", 5.8. Sep 2, 2002
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
I thought the route wasn't too bad for the crag - the upper section above the small roof was definitely better. It felt harder than the other 5.8s at the crag - probably due to the steeper nature of the face. We scrambled up to a shelf running below Glennevere, Twin Peaks, and Dark Tower to belay from. Aug 7, 2006
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7+
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7+
I was surprised to see this climb stopped before pulling through the cracks at the top. I would like to go back and try this one again and top-out. May 31, 2008
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.8
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.8
Must have cleaned up a bit with age. Definitely steeper and more fun than Road to Isengard in my opinion. Jul 25, 2010
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
Basically one long boulder problem. Really fragmented in its flow, but wouldn't hurt to climb it. Jul 19, 2012
1rsties4life   CO
I pulled the loose rock off the climb yesterday that was marked with the chalked X. It seemed pointless to mark a loose rock that was easily pulled out by wiggling it for 30 seconds or so. Hopefully this will be more helpful to future climbers of this climb. Sep 2, 2012
James Weckbaugh
Denver, CO
  5.8+ R
James Weckbaugh   Denver, CO
  5.8+ R
Depends on how you do this one. If you don't do the small dihedral with roof, it's a 6-7. Nov 6, 2012
Jonathan Reeves
Golden, Colorado
 
Jonathan Reeves   Golden, Colorado
 
I would say that the rock on this climb is pretty junky. There seemed to be plenty of jug holds after the overhang that I skipped in fear of the rock breaking off. The roof section was fun. After the roof was meh. May 4, 2013
Mike Olson
Boulder, CO
Mike Olson   Boulder, CO
NEW SPEED RECORD - SUB 2 (minutes).

We climbed this route at the end of the day, and light was running out. I had to clean the route as quickly as possible, so decided to time it.

1:53.86 from ground to anchors on TR. I fully expect news of this speed record to reach the community, and I welcome all challengers. Come at me, Alex, Tommy, etc. Jul 11, 2018
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Apparently this route has cleaned up substantially.

I thought it was pretty fun, especially the roof, but the upper part is ok as well. Jul 23, 2018