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Glennevere

5.8, Sport, 65 ft,  Avg: 1.9 from 184 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter and Glennis Walters, 2000
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Watermark
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This is a sport line just around the corner to the left of The Memory of Trees. It is the right of two lines on this steeper buttress, and starts in the same spot as Twin Peaks, the route to the left. It looks harder than it is.

Move up, clip a bolt, move into the pod, wiggle left, up left of the cavity/roof, find bigger holds than you would expect, and pull right over the roof. Fire past a few bolts on to a steeper headwall. Here you can move right (easier) or left (slightly harder) and then find a optional fist jam to the 2-bolt anchor in a little pod.

The upper headwall is a wee bit fractured and a mite lichen covered currently, but it may improve with age.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermark, showing bolt locations.
[Hide Photo] Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermark, showing bolt locations.
Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
[Hide Photo] Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
Nickie Kelly setting up to turn the roof below the third bolt.
[Hide Photo] Nickie Kelly setting up to turn the roof below the third bolt.
Erik Marr at the Glennevere anchors.
[Hide Photo] Erik Marr at the Glennevere anchors.
Routes left of The Memory of Trees. Arrows are approximate.
[Hide Photo] Routes left of The Memory of Trees. Arrows are approximate.
Glennevere and Twin Peaks.  Glennevere is the second bolted line from the left on The Watermark.  <br>
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Climb straight up to the third bolt to surmount the roof; avoid the temptation to go farther left.  <br>
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The upper headwall can be climbed on the left (harder) or the right (easier).
[Hide Photo] Glennevere and Twin Peaks. Glennevere is the second bolted line from the left on The Watermark. Climb straight up to the third bolt to surmount the roof; avoid the temptation to go farther le…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] I agree with the comments expressed. I did it yesterday with no knowledge of the climb other than that I saw the line. I guessed 5.9 and thought it was pretty junky. I'd put it in the "don't bother" category.

I'd have given it the bomb. Jun 3, 2002
[Hide Comment] I climbed it yesterday without knowing anything about it. I rated it 5.7, and my climbing partner called it 5.8. I thought it made for a good warm up and was worth doing. Jul 17, 2002
[Hide Comment] Spooky rock. Per RR: "Glennevere", 5.8. Sep 2, 2002
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I thought the route wasn't too bad for the crag - the upper section above the small roof was definitely better. It felt harder than the other 5.8s at the crag - probably due to the steeper nature of the face. We scrambled up to a shelf running below Glennevere, Twin Peaks, and Dark Tower to belay from. Aug 7, 2006
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] I was surprised to see this climb stopped before pulling through the cracks at the top. I would like to go back and try this one again and top-out. May 31, 2008
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Must have cleaned up a bit with age. Definitely steeper and more fun than Road to Isengard in my opinion. Jul 25, 2010
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Basically one long boulder problem. Really fragmented in its flow, but wouldn't hurt to climb it. Jul 19, 2012
[Hide Comment] I pulled the loose rock off the climb yesterday that was marked with the chalked X. It seemed pointless to mark a loose rock that was easily pulled out by wiggling it for 30 seconds or so. Hopefully this will be more helpful to future climbers of this climb. Sep 2, 2012
James Weckbaugh
Denver, CO
  5.8+ R
[Hide Comment] Depends on how you do this one. If you don't do the small dihedral with roof, it's a 6-7. Nov 6, 2012
Jonathan Reeves
Golden, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] I would say that the rock on this climb is pretty junky. There seemed to be plenty of jug holds after the overhang that I skipped in fear of the rock breaking off. The roof section was fun. After the roof was meh. May 4, 2013
Mike Olson
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] NEW SPEED RECORD - SUB 2 (minutes).

We climbed this route at the end of the day, and light was running out. I had to clean the route as quickly as possible, so decided to time it.

1:53.86 from ground to anchors on TR. I fully expect news of this speed record to reach the community, and I welcome all challengers. Come at me, Alex, Tommy, etc. Jul 11, 2018
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
[Hide Comment] Apparently this route has cleaned up substantially.

I thought it was pretty fun, especially the roof, but the upper part is ok as well. Jul 23, 2018