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Routes in The Watermark

Dark Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Glennevere S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lothlorien S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Memory of Trees, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minas Tireth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road to Isengard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Cracks Left T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks Right T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Peaks S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 85 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, August 2006
Page Views: 1,948 total, 14/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 18, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Twin Cracks Left (and Twin Cracks Right) begins with the first half of Twin Peaks and goes left into a separate crack system at the undercling (where the other goes right). The crux is somewhere along the crack (you decide). The crack itself is solid rock, mostly hands and fingers. Recommend: skip the bolt just beneath the undercling and place pro out left (where you are going anyway).

Location

This route begins with Twin Peaks and branches left at the undercling.

Protection

QDs for 3 bolts plus gear up to 3 inches. Climb to a great ledge at the top of the crack. There is no fixed anchor, but two finger-sized cracks 4 feet above the ledge provide excellent gear anchors. Belay up your partner and walk off...or rappel 100 feet from a tree just south of the belay ledge. This tree has no slings and rings at time of writing.
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Surprisingly good! Crack is all but invisible from the ground but magically appears once you reach the undercling. Super solid jams and pretty clean rock. Do it! Jun 3, 2013
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.9-
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.9-
Clipping the 3 bolts is not required for this climb. A yellow and blue Metolius as well as a large (3 or 4) sized cam protect the lower section. May 31, 2008
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Longer and more varied than Twin Cracks Right. My partner clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before moving left. Fun moves up the crack and arete. Near the top of the crack, he angled right to the anchor on Twin Peaks and lowered from there. I followed and cleaned the pitch. I think many people will do the climb this way instead of continuing up to the ledge and building a gear anchor. Oct 2, 2006