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Twin Cracks Left

5.9-, Trad, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2 from 33 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, August 2006
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Watermark
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

Twin Cracks Left (and Twin Cracks Right) begins with the first half of Twin Peaks and goes left into a separate crack system at the undercling (where the other goes right). The crux is somewhere along the crack (you decide). The crack itself is solid rock, mostly hands and fingers. Recommend: skip the bolt just beneath the undercling and place pro out left (where you are going anyway).

Location

This route begins with Twin Peaks and branches left at the undercling.

Protection

QDs for 3 bolts plus gear up to 3 inches. Climb to a great ledge at the top of the crack. There is no fixed anchor, but two finger-sized cracks 4 feet above the ledge provide excellent gear anchors. Belay up your partner and walk off...or rappel 100 feet from a tree just south of the belay ledge. This tree has no slings and rings at time of writing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

RR coming back up the crack after 4 hours of truly heinous cleaning...but it is a good crack.
[Hide Photo] RR coming back up the crack after 4 hours of truly heinous cleaning...but it is a good crack.
The route maker's tools of the trade.
[Hide Photo] The route maker's tools of the trade.
Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermark, showing bolt locations.
[Hide Photo] Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermark, showing bolt locations.
Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
[Hide Photo] Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
Loose section...be careful.
[Hide Photo] Loose section...be careful.
Peter Dillon working up the crack.
[Hide Photo] Peter Dillon working up the crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Longer and more varied than Twin Cracks Right. My partner clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before moving left. Fun moves up the crack and arete. Near the top of the crack, he angled right to the anchor on Twin Peaks and lowered from there. I followed and cleaned the pitch. I think many people will do the climb this way instead of continuing up to the ledge and building a gear anchor. Oct 2, 2006
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Clipping the 3 bolts is not required for this climb. A yellow and blue Metolius as well as a large (3 or 4) sized cam protect the lower section. May 31, 2008
Eric Klammer
Eagle, CO
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Surprisingly good! Crack is all but invisible from the ground but magically appears once you reach the undercling. Super solid jams and pretty clean rock. Do it! Jun 3, 2013