Elevation: 5,318 ft
GPS: 40.422, -105.226 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 616,523 total · 2,753/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

US 34, the Big Thompson Canyon, is lined with miles of all sorts of beautiful igneous rocks. Granite & gneiss crags draw the eye as you drive west from Loveland to Estes Park. For the rockhounds, there's all sorts of interesting rock strewn about this canyon. Some rock is solid and some is suspect, so you have to use good judgment climbing here. Little published information exists on routes in this area. Let's start an online guide to this area.

Note, the main part of this canyon is along US 34 connecting Loveland and Estes Park. There is a side canyon, where Devil's Gulch aka CR 43 goes with some additional climbing.

Apparently, like many places in our beautiful state, property issues can come into play. Please check things out so as not to create conflicts with owners.

FYI, the placement of this subarea in the hierarchy is based upon locating this area closest to a city/town and how folks may access it.

Getting There

From Estes Park, drive East on US 34. From Loveland, drive West on US Highway 34. Various crags line this beautiful stretch of canyon. Some crags like Combat, Monastery, & Seam Rock lie off US 34 a bit, up Cedar Park Rd. There is even a tiny bit of ice here.

Link to Big Thompson Canyon Ice

Crags (going uphill)

Thanks for your patience.

US 34

The Narrows - multiple crags 0-1.3 mi W of BST = 17.1 mi E of MR
-Steep Triangular Face - private property; do not climb here
-60 Degree Slabs - private property; do not climb here
-White Dike area - private property; do not climb here
-The Borg
-Building Block area
-Ironing Board area
-Beer Slabs
-Sign Crack area
-Bridge Wall North (aka Practice Rock)
-Bridge Wall South
-Between Shark's Fin Wall & Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)
-Dorsal Crack area
-Shark's Fin area
-Friendship 7 Wall
-Scoop Wall
-Iron John/Little Tree area
-The Ledges
Round Mountain - 3.5 mi W of BST = 13.6 E of MR => 2.25 mi hike
Palisade Mountain - N side - 5.1 mi W of BST = 12 mi E of MR
- Nancy's Rock / Cyclops Slab
- Ivy League
- Becker Wall
- Skull Rock
- Horseshead
- Jewel of the Nile Wall
- Jungle Wall
- Mikey's Island
- Skull Valley
- Subskull
- The Temple of Tao
- Unknown Crag at Palisade Mountain
- Gully Block
- Fairview Wall
- Saddle Tower

The town of Drake ~5.1 mi W of BST = 12 mi E of MR

Linger Longer Rock - N side - 6.1 mi W of BST = 11 mi E of MR
Erid Weatherin - N side - 6.5 mi W of BST = 10.6 mi E of MR
Five Point to a Fist Crag - N side - 6.6 mi W of BST = 10.5 mi E of MR
Salt Block Rock - 8.1 mi W of BST = 9 mi E of MR
Unknown Ridge - 9 mi W of BST = 8.1 mi E of MR
- Continuity Crag - S side
Daryle's Rock - 9.3 mi W of BST = 8.1 mi E of MR
Mary's Bust, Moonlight Rock - N side - 9.4 mi W of BST = 8 mi E of MR
- The Sugar Cube - just below Mary's Bust - N side
- Tick Rock - N side
- Moonlight Rock - N side
Stone Point - N side - 9.6 mi W of BST = 7.5 mi E of MR
- Stone Rock - N side
- Stone Slab - N side
Jug Dome/Anne's Rock - N side - 9.7 mi W of BST = 7.4 mi E of MR

Handicapped Fishing Access - ~10 mi W of BST = 7.1 mi E of MR

The Beach - N side - 11.1 mi W of BST = 5.2 mi E of MR
Caddis Cliff - N side - 11.4 mi W of BST = 4.7 mi E of MR
Glen Comfort Crag - ~13.6 mi W of BST = ~3.5 mi E of MR
Catch and Release Crag aka Montreat Crag, 16 mi W of BST, 1.1 mi E of MR

off Devil's Gulch Road aka CR 43 (joins US 34 near Drake) - Forest Service Rd (0.

Combat Rock - W side - 1 mi from CR 43
Basic Training Wall - W side - 1 mi from CR 43
Elmer Fudd's Wok - W side - 1 mi from CR 43
Bobcat Ridge - E side - 1 mi from CR 43
S and M Wall - W side - 1.25 mi from CR 43
Cedar Park Slab - 2.5 mi from CR 43 -> L -> next major R
The Monastery - 2.5 mi from CR 43 -> L 5.1 mi up FS 128

Glen Haven Picnic Area - S side - ~1 mi E of Glen Haven

Town of Glen Haven

abbreviations: BST = Beige Siphon Tube; MR = Mall Rd in Estes Park.

Webcams

You may find this webcam helpful to look at conditions: cotrip.org/roadConditions.htm. Click on the camera icon.

509 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Thompson Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
Rambo Santa
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 66
Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party…
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
No Mystery Here
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 101
The Steeple
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 137
Monastic Groove
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 151
The Hot Zone
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 91
Diagonal
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 81
La Maudite
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 46
The Broadmoor
Sport 6 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 303
Tabula Rasa
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 47
Mary's Tricks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 97
The Brown Palace
Sport 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 62
Arch Crack
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 102
Stolen Land
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 84
Psychatomic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rambo Santa Combat Rock
 74
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Pandora's Pebble Pinching P… Monastery > Outer Gates
 66
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
No Mystery Here Monastery > Outer Gates
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Steeple Monastery > Outer Gates
 101
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Monastic Groove Monastery > Outer Gates
 137
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Hot Zone Monastery > Catacomb
 151
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Diagonal Combat Rock
 91
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
La Maudite Monastery > Outer Gates
 81
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
The Broadmoor Mary's Bust Area > Mary's Bust - main bu…
 46
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 6 pitches
Tabula Rasa Monastery > Vestibule
 303
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Mary's Tricks Mary's Bust Area > Mary's Bust - main bu…
 47
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Brown Palace Mary's Bust Area > Mary's Bust - main bu…
 97
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 6 pitches
Arch Crack Monastery > Vestibule
 62
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Stolen Land Monastery > Vestibule
 102
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Psychatomic Monastery > Vestibule
 84
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Big Thompson Canyon »

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