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Areas in Mary's Bust Area

Golden Hall 4 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Mary's Bust - left buttress 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Mary's Bust - main buttress 5 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Moonlight Rock 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Sugar Cube, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Tick Rock 4 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 6,881 ft
GPS: 40.416, -105.376 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 51,481 total · 509/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 29, 2010 with updates from sandeld
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Construction Zone

This is an organizational entry to help with restructuring this section of the Big Thompson Canyon. It was suggested by one of the BTC developers.

The Mary's Bust area provides Big Thompson climbers with a wealth of different opportunities for climbs ranging from 1 to 6 pitches, trad climbs to sport climbs, slabs to overhangs, and from 5.6 to 13-. The rock is granitic with significant quartz intrusions and pockets of mica which can may holds flex. The rock is still shedding here. Consider helmets. The approaches are brief. Some climbers have remarked that this is Lumpy without the approach. The sun is often warm here, although you can chase the shade a bit here.

In this area, we'll include a number of crags that are accessed from the same parking area. Included are: Golden Hall (above and on the right side of Mary's Bust - left buttress), Mary's Bust - left buttress, Mary's Bust - main buttress, Tick Rock (to the left), Sugar Cube (to the right & below Mary's Bust), Moonlight Rock (above Mary's Bust - left buttress)....

Incidentally, there is nice opportunity to rinse off or wash down after a pleasant day out on the rock here.

Please email with any suggestions for improvement.

Getting There

From Estes Park, drive ~7.7 miles east on US 34 from Mall Road. This decent-sized rock, Mary's Bust, will loom above on the north side of the road. There are pullouts both on the north and south of the road. There is a cairn marking the typical approach towards the east end of the cliff.

From the east, it lies ~9.4 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube (BST) in the narrows.

49 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mary's Bust Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 10
Arachnophobia
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Nervous Tic
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
PTSD
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
 22
Dynamite
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 34
Maternal Damnation
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
The Broadmoor
Sport 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Disneyland
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 40
Mary's Tricks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 85
The Brown Palace
Sport 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Just in Time
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Wingardium Leviosa
Trad, Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 17
Stuck In Time
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 26
Violet Blue
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
The Devil's Backbone
Sport 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Sympathy for the Devil
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Arachnophobia Tick Rock
 10
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
Nervous Tic Tick Rock
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
PTSD Tick Rock
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Dynamite Mary's Bust - main bu…
 22
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R Sport
Maternal Damnation Mary's Bust - main bu…
 34
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
The Broadmoor Mary's Bust - main bu…
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 6 pitches
Disneyland Mary's Bust - main bu…
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Mary's Tricks Mary's Bust - main bu…
 40
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Brown Palace Mary's Bust - main bu…
 85
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 6 pitches
Just in Time Mary's Bust - main bu…
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wingardium Leviosa Mary's Bust - main bu…
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Stuck In Time Mary's Bust - main bu…
 17
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
Violet Blue Mary's Bust - main bu…
 26
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
The Devil's Backbone Mary's Bust - left bu…
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
Sympathy for the Devil Mary's Bust - left bu…
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mary's Bust Area »

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Photos

Greg Miller
my truck
Greg Miller   my truck
Is access to Mary's Bust closed because of road work on 34? Dec 21, 2017

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