Mary's Bust Area Rock Climbing
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Jun 29, 2010 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
This is an organizational entry to help with restructuring this section of the Big Thompson Canyon. It was suggested by one of the BTC developers.
The Mary's Bust area provides Big Thompson climbers with a wealth of different opportunities for climbs ranging from 1 to 6 pitches, trad climbs to sport climbs, slabs to overhangs, and from 5.6 to 13-. The rock is granitic with significant quartz intrusions and pockets of mica which can may holds flex. The rock is still shedding here. Consider helmets. The approaches are brief. Some climbers have remarked that this is Lumpy without the approach. The sun is often warm here, although you can chase the shade a bit here.
In this area, we'll include a number of crags that are accessed from the same parking area. Included are: Golden Hall (above and on the right side of Mary's Bust - left buttress), Mary's Bust - left buttress, Mary's Bust - main buttress, Tick Rock (to the left), Sugar Cube (to the right & below Mary's Bust), Moonlight Rock (above Mary's Bust - left buttress)....
Incidentally, there is nice opportunity to rinse off or wash down after a pleasant day out on the rock here.
Please email with any suggestions for improvement.
From the east, it lies ~9.4 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube (BST) in the narrows.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mary's Bust Area
Days w Precip