Type: Sport
FA: Tommy Caldwell, 1995
Page Views: 16,310 total · 77/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


71 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Spectacular. This is located just past the third corridor (The Balcony) on the left (southeast) heading into the Vestibule. It runs a line of bolts just right of the arete (formed by meeting between the right side of the Balcony and the Vestibule proper) up a steadily overhanging wall. Reach across from the large boulder and preclip the first bolt then head back down to the deck. Climb past the first bolt (bouldery) and up into the first pumpy crux. Look for rests before tackling the final thin and technical moves.

Protection

8 bolts to two bolt anchor. Preclip 1st bolt (reach across from boulder).
Awesome rock, great texture, and the best moves ever. Couldn't get much better. Mad Props to Mike and Tommy Caldwell for such a great discovery. Jan 28, 2003
Broke a hold it the middle of the lower crux.... It was the lower sidepull before the big (kick-out) reach to the crimp out high and left.... It loooked like it had just been stuck on there with some cakey mud.... It looks to me that that entire sidepull section will go in under 2 years.... The part I pulled off made the lower sidepull larger, but since most use the higher one for going up to the crimp out left. I recommend leaving the grade at 12d.... At least for me.... Jun 28, 2004
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
  5.12d
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
  5.12d
Could this be the best 12+ granite sport route in the universe? Sep 23, 2007
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
Yes. This, or Bullet the Blue Sky. Oct 9, 2007
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
Bullet the Blue Sky is an awesome climb, but it's welded tuff rather than granite. So that means Psychatomic IS the best granite sport climb in the universe. Jan 15, 2008
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
I didn't think the monastery was granite...? I've actually been wondering what kind of rock it is for a few years now. Mar 3, 2008
Dusty
Fort Collins
 
Dusty   Fort Collins
 
Love it. Jun 16, 2008
Dusty
Fort Collins
 
Dusty   Fort Collins
 
If you left your draws on Psychatomic through the 08/09 winter, my friend Ken has pulled them and replaced them with his own. If you would like your manky draws back, send me a message through mp.com. May 15, 2009
Bob Kryzer
Minnesota
Bob Kryzer   Minnesota
This route is by far the most fun thing I have ever seen on rock! May 30, 2009
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
  5.12d
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
  5.12d
Haven't tried it from the ground, but starting from the boulder was fun and felt only about 5.12-. Nice variation for weak fat people like me. Sep 14, 2011
tbol
Front Range, CO.
 
tbol   Front Range, CO.
 
Chris Deulen

I didn't think the Monastery was granite...? I've actually been wondering what kind of rock it is for a few years now.

The Monastery is a mix of pegmatite (think Black Canyon), nearly granite, and high grade metamorphics (mostly metapelites = schist). This is a very old metamorphic terrane and excellent evidence for continental drift. But the climbing is the cool part!
Nov 10, 2011
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.12+
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
  5.12+
First bolt has been sketchy for years. I replaced it. Sweet. Aug 9, 2012
Dave Vuono
Reno, NV
  5.12+
Dave Vuono   Reno, NV
  5.12+
Saw the new bolt yesterday. Sick. Thanks, Jonathan. Sep 24, 2012
Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO
Brett Merlin   Boulder, CO
Last bolt hanger is spinning a bit. Oct 15, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
  5.12d
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
  5.12d
Great route! Crux start, crux finish, pumpy through the middle with creative rests including multiple kneebars if you want to do them. Comparable in difficulty to Anarchitect, instead of powerful moves between slopers, it is techy and thin with lots of crimps. Do it and smile. Eagles soaring overhead make this route even sweeter. Unless they poop on your head of course.... Aug 16, 2014
alix morris
Estes Park, CO
alix morris   Estes Park, CO
Has anyone blown the third clip? I find that section to be difficult, and I think the best stance to clip is from the jug up and left of the bolt. It seems that you would crater into that rock near the bottom if you blew this.... Kind of scary.

EDIT: I blew the fourth clip and did crater into the boulder. Make sure you have a really attentive belay in that area. My fall was caught off guard by my belayer and myself and with good communication and a tight belay, you should not deck. Jun 22, 2017