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Routes in The Vestibule

911 S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Altar Boy S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arch Crack S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Aurora S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Brasserie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chateau Vert T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cinq Cents S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Doctors, Lawyers, and Indian Chiefs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dreamcatcher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flail Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grand Cru S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grand Ol' Opry S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Hallowed Rawl S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hyperdrive S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Inner Peace S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jagermeister S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lancet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Like the Good Ol' Daze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liquid Crystal Display S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mystery Route (right of The Altar) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Name of the Rose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychatomic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Quickening, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Shortening, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stand Up Comedy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stolen Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunday School S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suspended Animation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tabula Rasa S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Third Millennium S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Thunderbolt S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tilted Tower S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wes Bound S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Windwalker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Stuemke, 1995
Page Views: 3,336 total, 19/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jun 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

This is the route just left of Wes Bound. More pebble pinching at the Monastery, the twist here is that it is pretty darn steep at the start and at bolts 6-8 (the crux). Rappel 95' from the anchors.

Protection

12 bolts.

This route now has its own 2 bolt anchor.
Connor Newman
Reno, NV
  5.10b
Connor Newman   Reno, NV
  5.10b
I was glad to see that other people also thought this route was sandbagged for 5.9+. When I was on it, I thought it was one of the most difficult "5.9+'s" I've ever done, a grade which I almost always count on to be harder than 5.10a. The route is awesome, just don't get on it if you're expecting a 5.9 warm-up. Jul 1, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Thanks, Bruce! Sep 25, 2012
On September 23, 2012, Dale Haas and I added a second bolt (3/8" x 2.25" SS 5-piece Rawl) and quicklinks with chain to the single bolt anchor. You can now rap 95' back to the start of the route without having to traverse over to the anchors on Wes Bound. Sep 25, 2012
Canon
  5.10b
Canon  
  5.10b
No way this is 9+. Very steep start and the fat holds flex when weighted, so watch out for that. Climbing is very strenuous once you get halfway up, and I recall perhaps one good rest between bolts 6-9. The final clip and then traverse to the right for the anchors next to the detached block is very sketchy. This climb needs its own set of chains. The belay is almost always in the shade. Aug 28, 2012
Scott, you should write for Rock and Ice.... Mar 26, 2011
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
I got the crux seventh bolt, and it started drizzling. I knew I didn't want to bail. I gave it all I had, climbing on thin hands and promising toe jabs I made it to the two bolt completely drenched.
This was the best route we did all day and most commiting. Aug 25, 2008
Where are those anchors, Rick? Oct 14, 2005
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
This climb was substantially more difficult than Hot Zone, but not nearly as hard as Tabula Rasa. The numerous hold choices make for a meandering route, but if you can find the right holds, I do not think it is harder than 10a. Sep 13, 2005
Errett Allen
  5.10b
Errett Allen  
  5.10b
This route is both a bit steeper and a bit harder than Wes Bound. If Wes Bound is 5.10a, this route deserves a 5.10b rating. One of the best quality routes I've done at the Monastery. Sep 12, 2005
Bo Johnston
  5.10b
Bo Johnston  
  5.10b
Finished the route just before a hail storm yesterday and found this route very challenging. I used to consider myself a solid 5.10 face climber but got spanked on this 5.9+ (which it isn't). The last bolt has a chain attached to it now for a single point rappel or something... maybe not the best idea; we traveresed over to the right anchor. Jun 27, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
I can't comment as to what I think the grade is, since I didn't make it any further than the sixth bolt. Things seemed reasonable until then, but just above that bolt it definitely seemed harder than .9+. Aug 3, 2003
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Bruce, I and many others concur with your assessment of the grade. When Laurence Stuemke, the guy who _found_ and did the first routes at the Monastery, brought me here for the first time in 1995 the area was in its infancy. At that time many of the routes were brand spankin' new and unrepeated. This was the first route he led me to. He had just completed it and was obviously excited about its high quality (as he should have been), and wanted me to do what turned out to be the second ascent. At that time this was the only route in the _Inner Sanctum_ and instead of traversing to the anchors on _Wes Bound_ for the easy lower-off as is now the custom, it rambled all the way to the top of the tower some 150+ feet. Nice and long, but oh, the rope drag! Before getting on it he advised me that it was 9+. I felt quite a bit harder to me at that time, but being new to the area I reserved a grade opinion for later. The following weekend we returned and did the second route in the _Inner Sanctum_, Wes Bound, which is about 15 feet to the right. After we both had done Wes Bound we agreed on a preliminary 10a/b grade, which has become the consensus grade over the years. No one ever seems to argue with Wes Bound's grade. At that time I also told Laurence that I thought Wes Bound and Inner Peace were of the same difficulty, and as I recall he agreed. Why the route appears in the guide and on this site as 9+ seems a bit of a mystery to me, and I would NOT think it's reflective the consensus grade. Frankly, I can't recall meeting a sole who thought it was 9+, and the best I can tell is that it's one of those "prelimnary" grades that has just sort of stuck over the years.

More importantly, the quality and sustained nature of this mega slab-a-thon make it an undisputed area classic, and not to be missed when visiting the Monastery's lower formations.

As a side bar, the Gillett guide and this site list Stuemke's first ascent date on Inner Peace as 1996, however he actually climbed in August 1995. Wes Bound was done in the first week of September.

Sometime in the near future I'll place new anchors at the top of this route. For years the unfortunate traverse to the Wes Bound anchors has tainted the overall quality of an otherwise flawless pitch, and it will be much more enjoyable and safer with its own anchors.

cheers,rico Jun 21, 2003
This route seemed harder to me than 5.9+ more like 5.10b. The description in Gillette's guide mentions"fat holds". I must have missed those at the crux. BTW, the crux is not a single move, more like about 10-15 feet of continuously thin hold climbing between about bolts 6 through 8. Jun 19, 2003