Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Lawrence Stuemke
Page Views: 1,764 total · 12/month
Shared By: chris deulen on May 23, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Gillet’s RMNP guidebook puts this at 5.12a R. I will politely disagree. Unless a hold has broken off since Stuemke’s F.A., Aurora is considerably above this rating (though one could divide it into two boulder problems, roughly V4 followed by a V6/7 respectively). The protection feels fine, and must have had a bolt added since then as well.

An aesthetic bouldery start pulls past two bolts and deposits you in front of the third and onto a standing rest. From here, reach up, clip the fourth, and begin the bulgy crux which includes heel-hooking, slapping, crimping, and a desperate final toss before one can secure the fifth clip. Short but sweet.

Location

Aurora is basically the first climb the trail leads to. After going downhill, the trail flattens out, placing you in front of this flat wall. The left of two routes (Thunderbolt is to the right) on the uphill side of the Guardian, it is a great climb to gain your bearings for the rest of the Monastery, and is just before the downhill entrance to the Vestibule.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 chain anchors.

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Jason Price
  5.12a
Jason Price  
  5.12a
This is a good route, short and bouldery. However, I think the lower and upper cruxes are more like V3 and V4, respectively, with an overall grade somewhere around 12a. This route is definitely not 12d. Jul 21, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12d
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12d
I'd like your beta then, bc it took me about 10 sessions of working out the upper sequence before I finally bagged it. Jun 24, 2010
bigrocs  
Onsight warmup (looks easy but deceptive), so this can not be 12d, not that strong, but 12a feels right. Great route. Jul 31, 2011