Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Tommy Caldwell, 1998|
|Page Views:||17,793 total · 158/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Oct 29, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The route begins from a precarious ledge at the bottom of a narrow gorge on the east side of the Vestibule. Stem across the chasm, then crank out a difficult boulder problem to gain the wall. A set of vertical pods leads to a gnarly but sinker mono, followed by a series of shouldery gastons to reach a bomber finger lock and a quick shake. More strenuous gastons work along the diagonal rail up and right to a dubious rest at a sloping tower. The next crux climbs desperately past the "razor crimp" to reach an excellent rest just below the baffling redpoint crux. Execute a burly sequence along a shallow seam to reach an awful pinch at the lower tip of the "Africa Plate". As the runout grows, mad slaps up either side of the plate culminate in an all out dyno with a 30-foot whipper in the balance. From the break, pumpy, off-balance liebacks follow the left fissure of an exquisite magenta panel to one last shake before the tricky exit moves that guard the summit.