Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tommy Caldwell, 1998
Page Views: 14,857 total · 171/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 29, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Perhaps the best single pitch of metamorphic face climbing in the country, Grand Ol' Opry ranks among the premier elite sport climbs in the United States. With flawless stone, outstanding position, and unforgetable movement on natural holds, this line has few rivals in the genre of thin face climbing. In addition to impeccable footwork, beastly crimping power, and leather fingertips, this route demands an uncommon amount of core and compression strength for a wall that is just over vertical. When you throw in the cryptic sequences, spicy crux, alpine weather, and thin air, it becomes easy to understand how this beautiful streaked wall has managed to repel so many accomplished climbers.

The route begins from a precarious ledge at the bottom of a narrow gorge on the east side of the Vestibule. Stem across the chasm, then crank out a difficult boulder problem to gain the wall. A set of vertical pods leads to a gnarly but sinker mono, followed by a series of shouldery gastons to reach a bomber finger lock and a quick shake. More strenuous gastons work along the diagonal rail up and right to a dubious rest at a sloping tower. The next crux climbs desperately past the "razor crimp" to reach an excellent rest just below the baffling redpoint crux. Execute a burly sequence along a shallow seam to reach an awful pinch at the lower tip of the "Africa Plate". As the runout grows, mad slaps up either side of the plate culminate in an all out dyno with a 30-foot whipper in the balance. From the break, pumpy, off-balance liebacks follow the left fissure of an exquisite magenta panel to one last shake before the tricky exit moves that guard the summit.

Location

Immediately right of Third Millenium, this climbs the NW face of the Magical Mystery Tower. It shares the start with Dreamcatcher then heads straight up to the top of the formation.

Protection

8 bolts to 2 BA.
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Nice one, Mark. Was Logan up there with you? Oct 30, 2011
Congratulations on the send! Oct 30, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.14c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.14c
Logan was at Day Care on Friday fortunately. It would have been a real bitch trying to bring him in through the snow. Oct 31, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Cool to see this route on here. Is the number of ascents known? Tommy, Raether, Seigrist, Claasen... Maniac?

Originally given .14a by TC. Nov 6, 2011
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
"Cool to see this route on here. Is the number of ascents known? Tommy, Raether, Seigrist, Claasen... Maniac?

Originally given .14a by TC."

Nick Duttle has sent it as well. I can't think of any others. Strong work, mono! Nov 10, 2011
Dusty
Fort Collins
Dusty   Fort Collins
And Jon Cardwell. Nov 25, 2011
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.14b
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
  5.14b
Nice job, dude! One of THE BEST 5.14s in the country. No question. Jan 14, 2012
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Paige Claassen made the first female ascent, and the fourth overall in 2010. She commented that the climb suited her strengths, being crimpy and not radically steep. Jan 10, 2014
Hey, I am worried about the condition of the fixed gear and bolts on this route. The first hanger spins, and the bolt could not be tightened. I replaced the fixed draw on the last bolt before the crux (with a Petzl Djin), because it looked worn out, and I was worried about groundfall potential if it failed. I also replaced the carabiner on the draw above it, because it looked worn out. I think the gear has been up for 10+ winters. If anyone is interested in re-bolting / re-equiping this route, please send me a message. I would be happy to contribute to the cost. I don't live in Colorado anymore, and I don't know how to bolt or I'd do it myself. Jul 16, 2018