Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Tommy Caldwell, 1998|
|Page Views:||19,771 total · 146/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Oct 29, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Julie Nelson: the forest is closed due to after fire concerns in this area until June 30, 2021. There is a sign at the trailhead about the closure. See the US Forest Service website for further updates.
Previously: per Bruce Hildenbrand: Storm Mountain Road is open to all.
Per Hank C: the Storm Mt./Cedar Park area is closed to locals-only traffic for the time being due to wildfire concerns. We were turned away by a park ranger this morning (9/12/2020).
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
The route begins from a precarious ledge at the bottom of a narrow gorge on the east side of the Vestibule. Stem across the chasm, then crank out a difficult boulder problem to gain the wall. A set of vertical pods leads to a gnarly but sinker mono, followed by a series of shouldery gastons to reach a bomber finger lock and a quick shake. More strenuous gastons work along the diagonal rail up and right to a dubious rest at a sloping tower. The next crux climbs desperately past the "razor crimp" to reach an excellent rest just below the baffling redpoint crux. Execute a burly sequence along a shallow seam to reach an awful pinch at the lower tip of the "Africa Plate". As the runout grows, mad slaps up either side of the plate culminate in an all out dyno with a 30-foot whipper in the balance. From the break, pumpy, off-balance liebacks follow the left fissure of an exquisite magenta panel to one last shake before the tricky exit moves that guard the summit.