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The Ledges Rock Climbing
Routes in The Ledges
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Bashful S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Big Thompson Yard Sale, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Classic, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corbel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Counting Sheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Theory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Everybody Pushes a Broom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Green Hornet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hard to Reed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Indifferent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Love Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoped S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pedestal, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainbird S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Redbird (aka Ladybird) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sitting Pretty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 6,000 ft | 1,829 m |
| GPS: |
40.42159, -105.24011 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 18,767 total · 98/month | |
| Shared By: | Scott Matz on Apr 13, 2009 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
If you like adventurous, sketchy, and watch your every step climbing, you'll love The Ledges. These moderate trad lines were once stomping grounds for Layton Kor in the early '60s. The rock here is very solid as a macro structure, but they can seem rather loose the whole way. Watch your belay stations as each ledge has a lot of loose scree and talus. Note: there are overhanging bulges to belay under; to protect from rockfall.
L->R:
A. The Big Thompson Yard Sale, 8, 1p, 80', bolts.
B. Rainbird, 9, 1p, 115', bolts.
C. Redbird (aka Ladybird), 10+, 1p, 130', bolts.
D. Tenacious, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Sitting Pretty, 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.
F. Domino Theory, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
G. Monoped, 11-, 1p, 115', bolts.
H. The Pedestal, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
I. Bashful, 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.
J. Love Again, 9, 1p, 110', bolts.
K. The Classic, 8+, 2p, 320', gear.
L->R:
A. The Big Thompson Yard Sale, 8, 1p, 80', bolts.
B. Rainbird, 9, 1p, 115', bolts.
C. Redbird (aka Ladybird), 10+, 1p, 130', bolts.
D. Tenacious, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Sitting Pretty, 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.
F. Domino Theory, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
G. Monoped, 11-, 1p, 115', bolts.
H. The Pedestal, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
I. Bashful, 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.
J. Love Again, 9, 1p, 110', bolts.
K. The Classic, 8+, 2p, 320', gear.
Getting There
Go west on US 34 to the Narrows of the Big Thompson. Park at the pull off for the Practice Wall, and the guard rail trad line (US Highway 34 bypass). Continue east jumping the rail and scrambling down a horizontal ramp to the base of the ledges just infront of the river bend. Pick a line. The approach is only 5 minutes from the car, but the descent is a bit tricky, I wouldn't rap off, due to a lot of loose rock and possibly a stuck rope. Head west at the top of the canyon to find a west decent gully, you might have one rappel if you're lucky.
NOTE: to access the middle tier routes (Yard Sale, etc.) it is recommended that the large gully approach is used. If used, keep in mind that this is a Class 3 gully, some hands will be used to get over a spot or two. This is not recommended for those unaccustomed to such approaches, since the ever shifting scree in the gully is just that, ever shifting, sliding, rolling, tumbling, etc. (step lightly and gingerly, and try not to drop/push rocks onto your downhill partner).
The typical approach in the gully heads up trending pretty much straight up (other small gullies head off to the left and right). Scramble over a couple of bouldery spots until one reaches two large pines a hundred or two feet up. A somewhat obvious slot to the side of the first pine (on your right) gets you to the bottom of the start of the western edge of the cliffline. Follow this cliffline east to the climbs.
Also, the bottom of the middle tier cliff is mostly narrow ledges and sloping scree that lead directly to the 75-100' lower cliff that drops into the river. There is very little room (and a lot of personal exposure) for a pit stop.... Also, who doesn't love dogs (and kids)?, but like many spots in the BTC, sheep frequent the area actively and have been known to simply saunter by while humans are climbing and belaying. Combine this with the looseness of the approach and the narrowness of a few spots, and you might think twice before bringing Fido, toddler Junior, or that new partner who hasn't had to deal with such things? Just a thought.
NOTE: to access the middle tier routes (Yard Sale, etc.) it is recommended that the large gully approach is used. If used, keep in mind that this is a Class 3 gully, some hands will be used to get over a spot or two. This is not recommended for those unaccustomed to such approaches, since the ever shifting scree in the gully is just that, ever shifting, sliding, rolling, tumbling, etc. (step lightly and gingerly, and try not to drop/push rocks onto your downhill partner).
The typical approach in the gully heads up trending pretty much straight up (other small gullies head off to the left and right). Scramble over a couple of bouldery spots until one reaches two large pines a hundred or two feet up. A somewhat obvious slot to the side of the first pine (on your right) gets you to the bottom of the start of the western edge of the cliffline. Follow this cliffline east to the climbs.
Also, the bottom of the middle tier cliff is mostly narrow ledges and sloping scree that lead directly to the 75-100' lower cliff that drops into the river. There is very little room (and a lot of personal exposure) for a pit stop.... Also, who doesn't love dogs (and kids)?, but like many spots in the BTC, sheep frequent the area actively and have been known to simply saunter by while humans are climbing and belaying. Combine this with the looseness of the approach and the narrowness of a few spots, and you might think twice before bringing Fido, toddler Junior, or that new partner who hasn't had to deal with such things? Just a thought.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Ledges
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Sunny Roughly 10am to 2pm
during high season
6am
8pm
Weather Averages
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High
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Low
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Precip
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Days w Precip
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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos
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