Elevation: 5,543 ft
GPS: 40.422, -105.24 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,818 total · 198/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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The routes I climbed in this area were all sport routes-though there is some potential for trad routes-just watch for loose blocks. I can't stress that enough. The rock here is a solid gniess that offers zero friction. Good foot-work is the ticket. All the routes begin on the shoulder of US Highway 34, so remember not to park the car too close in spite of falling matter. Since the routes are in a fairly narrow canyon, sunlight is most abundant during the hours closest to noon and when that sun goes down, the wind can really party hard. For pro you'll need at least 10 draws and some reflective-wear so you aren't hit by any reckless drivers.

Eds. This is an area spread out over ~1.3 miles uphill from the Beige Siphon Tube. Subsequently, we have subdivided this section to make it easier for you to use.

Getting There

Take I-25 to Loveland whether that be north or south. Exit west on Highway US 34. Head west till you get to the canyon. You'll know when you get there. Just as you enter, you'll cruise under a big beige tube. That's the water supply for Horsetooth Reservoir. About a mile past that, on the left, just before you cross a bridge that makes a leftward bend, is a 25 ft. overhanging route with a total of two bolts then run out to one bolted shut. This is route one.The next two routes are about another half mile down the road on the right. We'll call these routes two and three. These are right next to eachother-they start on the same bolt, split in the middle,end on the same shuts, and last about 45 ft. And the last route, route four, is about 50 ft. past routes two and three. This guy is about 22 ft. tall and is really tricky. There are no holds about half way up. I think five draws should do. I don't know the names of these routes or how long they've been there so I'm just naming them by proximity to the green tube. Bring ten draws and have fun.

Crags going upstream

Construction Zone

0.0 from BST
Steep Triangular Face - private property; do not climb here
0.1 from BST
60 Degree Slabs - private property; do not climb here
0.2-0.3 from BST
White Dike area - private property; do not climb here
0.6 from BST
The Borg
Building Block area
Ironing Board area
1.0 from BST
Beer Slabs
Sign Crack area
1.2 from BST
Bridge Wall North
Bridge Wall South
1.3 from BST
Between Shark's Fin Wall & Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)
Dorsal Crack area
Shark's Fin area
Friendship 7 Wall
Scoop Wall
Iron John/Little Tree area
The Ledges

86 Total Climbs

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Location: Beige Tube Area / The Narrows Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Beige Tube Area / The Narrows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shark Bait
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
The White Dike
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mists of Mordor
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Hornet
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slipstream Dihedral
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Left of Seven
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mystery 13
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friendship Seven
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A3
Safety in Numbers
Trad, TR, Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shark Bait Shark's Fin Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The White Dike White Dike Area
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Mists of Mordor Between Shark's Fin W…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Green Hornet Ledges
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Slipstream Dihedral Ironing Board Slabs (…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Left of Seven Friendship 7 Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Mystery 13 White Dike Area
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Ironjohn Iron John/Little Tree…
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Friendship Seven Friendship 7 Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Safety in Numbers Bridge Wall N (Practi…
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A3 Trad, TR, Aid
More Classic Climbs in Beige Tube Area / The Narrows »

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Right after the bridge is a gold colored slab on the right with some top rope bolts off of a ledge. Several posible routes on the slab, the only problem is that the traffic is about three feet behind the belayer. Jul 15, 2002
Shane B  
I have heard this location refered to as "The Narrows" from several climbers. The Green Tube has been repainted and is now beige. Gillett also refers to the area as "The Narrows" in his book. Jan 7, 2003
Route 1 is 13a/b, route 2 is 9c, route 3 is 10a and route 4 is Halfpipe-10c/d Feb 17, 2003
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
The gold colored slab is a great and varied place to toprope. You can access the belay bolts by climbing the loose gully just to the west then traversing across. It is a solid piece of rock amongst the generally useless loose stuff in the narrows. However a car did come crashing into the base of that climb last summer. The routes are good and varied. Good place to practice footwork and even some dihedral and undercling work, all from one rope! I would estimate the routes to go from 5.6 - 5.10 or so, (one climber i met there thought 5.11) depending on which route you pick. There is also a 5.9- crack climb about 15 ft east that is short but good practice. It also has some top-roping bolts at the top. Be careful when setting up the toprope as both sets of bolts are placed in an area with some dicey exposure from which a fall would not be pleasant. If you like to have your picture taken by tourists this is a great place in the summer. Mar 9, 2003
Well, let's see. I will add some more.
1. It is the Narrows, all the locals and maps refer to it as such. 2. The rock is "adventurous" but solid areas exist. All in all there are about 40 routes in this 1 1/2 mile stretch of the canyon. 3. Jim Disney and Layton Kor have climbed here as have Mark Wilford.
4. About the Gold Wall or Bridge Wall. It is 1.2 miles west of the siphon tube. From right to left the routes are called Safety in Moderation, 5.9, Wilford FA. 10 feet left is a seam, Safety in Numbers, a hard to protect 5.11 by Wilford. The wall left of the tree has multiple variations from 5.5 to 5.11.

At 0.6 miles west from the beige siphon tube is a paved pull out on the south side of the road. A big block called the Borg is right at road side. Top rope anchors abide. The obvious crack seam is called the Borg Crack and is solid 5.11. The left face is also 5.11. The Prow is 5.12. Look up to the east at the slabs from the Borg. Lots of climbing with some bolted routes there.

At 1 mile west of the siphon tube is another paved pullout. There is some road side bouldering. The sign crack located behind the curve sign is fun, loose at top, and goes at 5.11. From the paved pullout look up and east and obvious chimney is seen. Jim Disney climbed it long long ago at 5.7. If you walk to the chimney and hike north for 50 feet or so and cut up behind the chimney you will see a string of 5 bolts ending at a 2 bolt anchor. Unclimbed as yet, a crucial hold broke off when I was freeing it and it went from 5.11 to 5.12? Best guess any way. I can't climb it and it hasn't seen a free ascent. Have at it. E-mail me if you get it.

From the same pullout if you hike west on the road 60 feet and hike up the steep gully for 150 feet you will come to the Beer slabs. There are two routes here. This Bolts For You, 10a is on the left. 1st pitch has 2 bolts and the second pitch has a right and left variation with 4 bolts. The route on the right is called A Message From Dick and goes at 5.8. One bolt on the first pitch and a 5.5 crack for the second pitch takes gear to 3 inches. Rap bolts at top of each pitch.

1.3 miles west of the siphon tube is a dirt pullout on the north side. Hike up the gully just east of this for 150 feet to a wall. It's called the Sharks Fin Wall. There are 5 routes on this wall. The two [bolted] routes True Colors, 5.11. It is the line of bolts on the left and takes a couple of cams to assist in protecting. The one on the right is called Stupid Igits, 5.10 and has 3 bolts. A small nut helps protect it after the second bolt.

Back at the dirt pullout at 1.3 miles. Look up to the west at the overhanging wall. 2 routes exist here. The one on the right is called Friendship Seven and goes at 10d-11a. Can't seem to get consensus. The route on the left goes at 9+-10a. Immediately around the prow 20 feet away to the west is a dihedral called Trash Can. Climb it and you will see why. It's 130 feet of 5.6. There is a 2 bold anchor at the top that allows access to the bolts on Friendship 7 for top roping purposes. Up the road 100 and 150 feet are the routes Santa's Little Helpers (half pipe) and Iron John(road side attraction)..

That's all I have for now, but there is a lot more climbing in the canyon. E-mail me at rockallen@msn.com. al Jun 1, 2003
I've looked up plenty of times, at the obvious slabs mentioned on this page - never believed that there were routes on them - finally went up to look for myself - found the nice crack (007 Crack) up near the top of the canyon but only located an old piton, a single stray bolt and two sets of anchors on the lowest slab - nothing on the middle one and no _bolted routes_ anywhere - so I decided to add a few to the lowest slab - climbed one with my son and rope soloed the other two - enjoyable enough, but would hesitate to recommend themSM Oct 11, 2004
Just a comment on the previous comment from A C in October 2004. The pitch you describe, if it is on the slabs above the road at the first turn after entering the narrows, is a climb I established in 1994/1995 or so called code rainbow. I rated it 5.9+ R. I led the climb on a single piton, a bolt placed on lead, and one other finagled piece of gear below the bolt. Too bad it has been retro bolted. It was a very exhilerating climb in it's original state. My partner and I spent several forays on the slab to put up the climb. Perhaps trying to do it in good style is out of vogue. This is too bad, but then again, perhaps we got more out of the climb than others will now get. Jan 6, 2005
Thanks for the response; I too, after inspecting the climb and cleaning some of the possible placements for potential gear, lead the climb. At the time, I was of-the-mindset, not to place any bolts. But, after a while of contemplating the whole slab, I came to the conclusion that there was more potential for additional routes (with bolts) as well. In fact after some deliberation, I called what I did, Ruminative. At first, I did not fully understand the purpose of the lone bolt. Even though I have had more than one first-claimed route retro-bolted on me, I would say that the slab deserves a couple routes of the bolted variety. Nonetheless, you climbed it first, and as soon as the sun hits the slab this spring, I am willing to remove the bolts I placed on the section you described. Then, maybe others will get more out of the climb? Jan 9, 2005
And thanks for your response. Don't get me wrong, I don't want you to pull any bolts. It's just that I have received some grief from other climbers for the already existing bolts on the "chossy" climbs I chose to bolt. # 1 thing, safe is better, so it's all cool. I believe there to be 3-4 routes already on the bottom slab in question. The far right around the corner can be climbed up and left onto the slab. This was led by a friend of mine on natural gear, scarce as it is. A second route takes the right slanting crack and later joins with the route you bolted. Third is the route you and I are talking about that starts in a flared crack and ventures onto the face above. Lastly, the junky left corner looks climable though I have never climbed it. I did find an old piton there once a long time ago. But, there are several slabs up and right of this one that I just never got around to bolting, though I have top roped all of them. They too offer some great slab climbing and could use some bolts. If you want to explore sometime in the spring or summer, let me know. I live in Loveland. Jan 15, 2005
the Mountains
Stiles   the Mountains
Safety in Numbers- 11a free; moderate clean aid. Thin and soft diagonal crack on the golden slab.

Some punters nailed this crack this weekend (14 Feb 05) because they didn't have enough small gear to aid with. NEVER ruin the work of others with a hammer to bring routes down to your level.... Feb 14, 2005
Safety in Numbers is a fun lead but I do believe it has been kind of a practice aid crack for some time, probably because it is short and easily accessible and on soft rock that most don't care about enough to worry about it. I lead this as my first 11a lead 10 years ago and I do believe it has gotten a little easier due to piton practice. Maybe if enough people aid it with pins it will become a difficult off width some day. Feb 18, 2005
In response to the AC who added bolts to the upper slabs. Wow dude, I hiked up there yesterday and was amazed to see that a climb I lead with one bolt placed on lead now had eight more bolts to it. the first 3 bolts are just a face climbing variation to my originol line beginning in the difficult to protect crack on the right.Its been a long time but the upper portion of the route that contains several bolts had places to place pro. seems like adding a couple of bolts would have been ok but what I saw yesterday looks like over kill. May 19, 2005
In the Big Thompson Canyon .6 miles west of the beige siphon tube (pullout for the borg and the upper slabs), I found two new bolted lines. the first is in a chimny/dihedral below and right of the first slab. The second starts below and left of the first slab and appears to go up to the base of the second slab. Any one know the names or ratings???. They look fun. Jun 17, 2005
Allen, regarding your route on the slab...Do you own the whole slab? Because the other two bolts you say are part of the route you named Rainbow (something?) are for another route. Did you do the left-hand start and then finish on the left-hand arete, too? What exactly did you do? I agree with you, and the whole argument for establishing traditional routes without bolts, and to not retro-bolt existing lines, so, I'm not even going to go there. You can drop the attitude; I'm willing to do whatever is right regarding existing routes, even if it means reestablishing them (i.e.-removing hardware). We should meet sometime and go over it and unlike all the other crap going around, solve this. I have tried to contact you via your information found on this site, but have not heard back from you. The messages must not be getting through. How can we get in touch? I'd leave my name or number, but I don't thinks it's anyone else's feckin' business. Jul 13, 2005
Well, let's see. No, I don't own the slab. It isn't mine. What exactly did I do? I and my partner back then climbed the broken dihedral around the corner to the left (5.10?) and drilled the two bolts for the anchors at the top. He led, I followed. Then we climbed the crack on the right that slants right then straight up. I led, he followed. A piton that I later hammered out because it was bunk and a # 4 or 5 HB that popped got me to the point where I drilled the "lone bolt "left of the crack and moved up and left, placed gear then up again veering back to the center of the rock, hammered another piton and went to the previously drilled anchors. My partner then did a second variation, he led, I followed, taking the left slanting crack from the bottom placing pro to the left edge, up a bit then over right to the bolt and finishing with the first variation. I later did a third variation taking the [original] crack line up, clipping the " lone bolt", then straight up 5.8 ground to the anchors. All in all, two routes with the second having 3 variations. I did not climb the lower center section where you have 3 bolts. I heard [it's] hard though. I don't mind getting together at all to iron out [anything] if [anything] needs pressing. I just find this web site quirky. I have been [verbally] chastised as one AC put it, "just another over the hill something-or-other bolting for glory", and then when i simply point out that there seems to be a lot of bolts in the upper section of a route that I feel I led in good style, I again get chastised. But, as I have always said, No one is making me clip bolts if they are there, and besides mabye more bolted routes will bring more climbers to the area. An area that I agree with you has some fun climbs there. Good solid [granite,] some exposure high up the canyon walls, and no crowds. I did see the bolted climb below the slab in question, it looks fun, I saw bolts at the bottom of the second slab with anchors at the top. The second slab could use 3 or 4 routes. I recently bolted the dihedral to the right of the 007 crack on the upper slab and there is room for routes to the walls left of that. All that being said, try rockallen@msn.com. mabye we can get together.Allen Jul 14, 2005
Allen! That dihedral was my trad. project! The thing would have gone free with waaaaaaaaaaaaay better gear than the lower slab has! What's the [matter] with you? Are we even now? Jul 15, 2005
Do you own all of the Rock? Your Project? Even? Didn't see a sign on it! First. Let's face it. No one, you or I own anything, unless you actually have a title to the land itself, and if you do I'll take my hardware down and place it somewhere else. I first climbed this dihedral in 1995 or so via top rope with the intent to bolt it. After ten years of putting it off and no signs that anyone else was interested I figured it fair game so in May I rope soloed it a few times, decided where I wanted protection, and bolted it. So is it my project or yours? Gear. Maybe. I felt it poorly protectable. Take into consideration that I don't lead poorly protectable routes any more. I'm not as willing to risk injury with poor gear now than I was ten years ago. Things change AC. Even? If it makes you feel better. I didn't know it was about that. Like I said. This web site is Quirky. Climbers act like a bunch of gossipy old maids. I'll even include myself in that statement. Fact of the matter is, I'm willing to climb for my own reasons and by my own ethics. Problem is that to many ACs feel the need to "be even". Tell you what I'll do though. I'll stay out of your @#$% if you stay out of mine. Allen Jul 16, 2005
Hey Allen, I didn't mean to sound so serious. I actually thought the whole thing was a tad humorous. And, I guess I still felt badly for adding the bolts to one of your routes, which we can still look into. I agree that there is more potential for new routes in the area. I'm definitely not one of the AC's authoring the very rude comments directed toward you earlier. Jul 19, 2005
Not a problem. I got your email, [maybe] we can climb soon.allen Jul 21, 2005
Hey, I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed or knew anything about the very first two climbs in the canyon. They are located just after the tube on the left. There is a sign on the right in a little pull-out that talks about the Bighorn Sheep that were trans-planted there. The climb on the right looks like the bolts are good but I couldn't see an anchor? The climb on the left has some home-made hangers that could maybe be replaced but I think they are probably all right. If anything knows anything about them, post them or just put up a comment. Dec 28, 2005
I don't recall any anchors on the top. It's kind of a scramble climb down or rapping off of a sling. These routes have been here for some time and I'm not sure who put them up. Perhaps you could e-mail Kyle Kingery, his name is in the user list on this web site. He may know. allen Jan 6, 2006
Travis R. Thompson
Parachute (Rifle), CO
Travis R. Thompson   Parachute (Rifle), CO
Travis again, I was wondering if anyone knew who put up the short, hard route before the bridge below the practice slab. It is easy to find. It is right at the pull-out and has two bolts with a one bolt anchor. Also, has anyone actually completed this thing? My friend Tim and myself have tried it before but found it to be way over our heads. Sep 2, 2006
Travis, around 10 years ago or so, a 17 year old high school foreign exchange student named Armon from the Czech Republic did some climbing with my partner and me. We met him at Carter Lake and he was bouldering V-6. I believe he put up the route about which you're asking. I have heard it rated everything from 12a to 13a. Don't know for sure. Hey, have you tried Sparky's Direct on Mary's Bust or Slipstream Dihedral on the upper slabs. Curious what you think. allen Sep 3, 2006
Just a little more info on the last three routes in question. That's correct, the short 2 bolt route just before the bridge below the practice slab was put up and climbed by Armin. I'm not sure about the exact rating, I think he said around 12c, or the name, but I could ask him if anyone is interested. We also put up the two routes at the start of the canyon by the tube. The one on the right is called Kermit and is 5.10 something. I did the FA, but since it was one of the first things I ever climbed I couldn't give it a more specific rating (I also never got back on it since I moved). The route on the left with the home-made hangers is called Friday the 14th, and according to Armin, is mid to upper 5.11 (I never got on it because I couldn't do moves like that back then). The two routes meet at the top at a single bolt anchor. It would be awesome if someone would improve the anchor with a 2nd bolt and chains to lower off of. I will be in the area for a few weeks over July and will replace the hangers on Friday the 14th. I think it would be great if we could turn these two routes into good safe climbs so more people can get on them. May 10, 2007
Patrick, Let me know, I'll help you make the changes if you want. Also, if your in touch with Armin, getting the name for the 12 c would be great too. I did a bit of climbing with him when he was here, or I should say I did a lot of falling off behind him. Allen May 13, 2007
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