Elevation: 7,408 ft
GPS: 40.437, -105.312 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,912 total · 207/month
Shared By: allen simons on Jan 24, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Palisade Mountain is the same mountain that Nancy's Rock (a.k.a. Rio Bravo and Cyclop's Slab), Becker Wall, and Skull Rock are located on. This is a huge mountain with some established routes and possibilities for 100s of other routes. Many slabs and crack systems exist. With the exception of Nancy's Rock, everything requires steep approaches and navigating through difficult rock bands, pine needles, and vegetation. The rock here is however very solid and potential for multi-pitch routes exist. There are some brief descriptions in the Estes Park Valley Guide by Bernard Gillett, but locating these routes is difficult in reality and even more difficult to explain.

Getting There

Palisade Mountain is located on US Highway 34 west of Loveland. From the Beige Siphon tube in the Narrows it is 6 miles, just a mile short of the town of Drake. The mountain is the obvious rocky crag hundreds of feet up the north side of the road. Park in the paved lot at Nancy's Rock and start on that trail. After 100 feet break off right and trail blaze up and right. I recently discovered some quartz cairns midway marking a pseudo trail.

Poison Ivy Alert

Eds. Note, there is much poison ivy for the sensitive.

90 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Palisade Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
Borachone
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Chance
Trad, Sport, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 10
Glue Factory
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 3
Ponyboy Arete
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Heng Chuan Corner
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Pearly Burly Brooke
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Sea Biscuit
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 14
Neighsayer
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Kentucky Derby
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Eagle's Beak
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 5
Breeder's Cup
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Funky Gold Patina
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
The Temple
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Tijuana Donkey Show
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Annie's Knotty Fingers
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Borachone Nancy's Rock
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Chance Nancy's Rock
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport, TR
Glue Factory Horseshead
 10
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Ponyboy Arete Horseshead
 3
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Heng Chuan Corner Temple of Tao
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Pearly Burly Brooke Jewel of the Nile Wall
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sea Biscuit Horseshead
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Neighsayer Horseshead
 14
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Kentucky Derby Horseshead
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Eagle's Beak Horseshead
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Breeder's Cup Horseshead
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Funky Gold Patina Horseshead
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
The Temple Skull Rock
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tijuana Donkey Show Horseshead
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Annie's Knotty Fingers Mikey's Island
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Palisade Mountain »

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Photos

In 1965, Kenyon King and I climbed a distinctive ridge or arete from the road to the summit of Pallisade. We stayed on or near the arete as much as possible to make it interesting. I do remember having to get off the ridge a little and go up a chimney of sorts. At the time we graded it II 5.6. You can probably make it as easy or hard as you want. The rock wasn't bad.

Tom Griffiths
Kenai, Alaska Apr 20, 2008
denise 911
fort collins, co
denise 911   fort collins, co
Note 'vegetation' involves forests of poison ivy. Can't really speak for quality of rock towards the top, but we encountered a lot of loose rock and decomposing granite on the approach up from Idlewilde Dam (on Hwy 34). Aug 15, 2008
Yes yes, there is poison ivy in the Big T. It is the Rocky Mountains. And, although there is loose rock, there is an abundance of solid rock. Aug 19, 2008
westy
Loveland, Co
westy   Loveland, Co
Stay high (out of the valley) and it'll be alright. Denise is right with the poor quality of rock where we were. The actual location in reference to Palisade was the false summit face right of Palisade. We were there for a different type of climbing. From the dam, it's a long venture to get to the actual possibility of route climbing.
I agree Allen. There is an extreme amount of ivy in the Big T.

Climb fast, safe and Fun! Aug 29, 2008