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Mikey's Island Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Mikey's Island

L › R R › L A › Z

	Annie's Knotty Fingers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Care Giver, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Distriminator, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 PG13
	Southeast Arete (unknown) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unknow Left-facing Corner to Top T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Unknown Tips Crack to Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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GPS:	40.43666, -105.31171 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,638 total · 35/month
Shared By:	1rsties4life Carnes on Sep 7, 2011
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

This is the pinnacle just Southeast below Horse Head located on the ridge line. From the approach to Horse Head, you can see the striking finger cracks that make up two of the three climbs this formation has to offer.

Getting There

Hike to Horse Head and on its far Eastern flank scramble downhill Southeast 100 yards, then hike slightly back up and around to the base of the formation.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mikey's Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● The Care Giver Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 8 ● The Distriminator Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 10 ● Annie's Knotty Fingers Trad