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Routes in Mikey's Island

Annie's Knotty Fingers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Care Giver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Distriminator, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft
FA: Jason Seaver, Matt Cohen, 5-22-10
Page Views: 520 total, 7/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start in the chubby flared crack at the wall's base and climb it to a ledge. This ledge gives the pitch its PG-13 rating, as the dual flares above it have devious climbing and protection. I had to hang here on my onsight effort in order to suss it out. Hence the current C0 rating. Conquer the flares, and the jam/layback crack above, and then jog left under an overlap. Climb the burly splitter out the overlap and up the short headwall above to arrive at a slab in an alcove. There's a crack in a corner, shooting out the roof above, which is the obvious finish to this pitch. BUT, in my cowardice, and doubt about anchors above, I built an anchor in the roof crack and traversed way off right to belay. I believe a bolt anchor just above the roof crack (and a no-hang free ascent) would make this pitch complete. As is, scramble off right and back down to the base.

Location

Around the corner, to the East, from the other pitches on this crag is the steep brown and yellow East wall with a crack system meandering up its center.

Protection

Standard full rack.

It needs a bolt anchor at its top.

Photos

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