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The Temple
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Rob DeZonia |
Page Views: | 2,646 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This mixed route climbs the arete to the left of Skull Fracture. Begin in an easy crack, or on the face to the cracks right(5.9s), and work your way up to a bolt. Follow a couple more bolts straight up to a small roof at the base of a left-leaning groove. Clip a bolt and mantle over to a stance. Place a piece into the crack on the right, and make a balancy 11a no hands move over to the crack. Follow the flared 5.9 crack to its top with good gear. Move up left to the next roof and clip another bolt. Pull over the roof on awesome rock and great holds (10+) and move out right to the arete. Follow the arete to the top clipping more bolts.
There is not a bolt anchor at the top, so bring some extra gear. The easiest way to descend seems to be srambling off to the west down an easy slab and then around to the south face.
There is not a bolt anchor at the top, so bring some extra gear. The easiest way to descend seems to be srambling off to the west down an easy slab and then around to the south face.
Location
Start to the left of Skull Fracture. Look for three bolts protecting a slab 20' up. The Temple starts 20 or so feet to the left of these bolts in a right-leaning system. We like to climb the clean face to the right of the easy cracks straight up to a cool flake.
Protection
Bring a standard rack and some quickdraws. I used about 6 cams from finger to hand-sized. Bring extra gear for the anchor.
Per Ken Duncan: there is a bolted anchor now.
Per Ken Duncan: there is a bolted anchor now.
4 Comments