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> Jewel of the Nile Wall
Pearly Burly Brooke
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 8
votes
Routes in Jewel of the Nile Wall
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Country Mile T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Family Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pearly Burly Brooke T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Morkel, 2005? |
| Page Views: | 1,810 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | 1rsties4life on Sep 12, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description
First let me start by saying that I can't possibly claim the first ascent of this incredible splitter; however, I can claim that it is, "an incredible splitter!" This is the center crack in the face just left of the large, laser cut roof at the bottom of the cliff.
P1. Start with some hard to protect moves getting into the crack, then climb straight up with mostly hands for almost 200'. It ends with an angling hand traverse right to a good stance.
P2. Continue up the crack up with some 5.9 boulder problems for another 50'-60' and belay.
When rapping back down, we found evidence of some purple webbing at the top of the dihedral on the right side of the cliff, indicating that it had been climbed before.
P1. Start with some hard to protect moves getting into the crack, then climb straight up with mostly hands for almost 200'. It ends with an angling hand traverse right to a good stance.
P2. Continue up the crack up with some 5.9 boulder problems for another 50'-60' and belay.
When rapping back down, we found evidence of some purple webbing at the top of the dihedral on the right side of the cliff, indicating that it had been climbed before.
Fort Collins, CO
CO
Fort Collins, CO
The corner is great, 5.9. I lead it again last weekend, cleaned it up again too. It does not take long for the shrubs to regrow.
I really doubt I made the first accent of this nice crack in 2005. Even then, I assumed it had been done. I've talked with a couple of people but don't have any info on earlier ascents. I don't recommend the second pitch of this route, not really a pitch at all; really dirty scrambling. Traversing off to the east at the fist belay is pretty reasonable. Then walk east, to the lower of two trees to a 100' rap (from the tree) into a gully.
I have a little project going on the central line that may get one bolt, the rest goes with gear. It too will be very good, 170' feet of nice climbing. Only about 10+, so not much of a project, but some cleaning is still necessary. Oct 21, 2011
CO
Loveland