Avg: 3.5 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,723 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||1rsties4life on Sep 12, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
P1. Start with some hard to protect moves getting into the crack, then climb straight up with mostly hands for almost 200'. It ends with an angling hand traverse right to a good stance.
P2. Continue up the crack up with some 5.9 boulder problems for another 50'-60' and belay.
When rapping back down, we found evidence of some purple webbing at the top of the dihedral on the right side of the cliff, indicating that it had been climbed before.
We lowered off of slings that I hope to replace with a bolted anchor soon, in an effort to keep the area clean of tat. Two 70 meter ropes will guarantee safe access to the ground.