Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Morkel, 2005?
Page Views: 2,723 total · 22/month
Shared By: 1rsties4life on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. Details

Description

First let me start by saying that I can't possibly claim the first ascent of this incredible splitter; however, I can claim that it is, "an incredible splitter!" This is the center crack in the face just left of the large, laser cut roof at the bottom of the cliff.

P1. Start with some hard to protect moves getting into the crack, then climb straight up with mostly hands for almost 200'. It ends with an angling hand traverse right to a good stance.

P2. Continue up the crack up with some 5.9 boulder problems for another 50'-60' and belay.

When rapping back down, we found evidence of some purple webbing at the top of the dihedral on the right side of the cliff, indicating that it had been climbed before.

Location

We lowered off of slings that I hope to replace with a bolted anchor soon, in an effort to keep the area clean of tat. Two 70 meter ropes will guarantee safe access to the ground.

Mic W: added a two bolt anchor with lowering links for Pearly Burley and Country Mile. This anchor is 40 meters off the ground. One can lower their climber with an 80 meter rope.

Protection

A standard rack with small wired nuts for the start, then doubles to triples in hand-sized pieces for the crack.

Photos