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Routes in Jewel of the Nile Wall

Country Mile T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Family Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearly Burly Brooke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Morkel, 2005?
Page Views: 1,708 total · 22/month
Shared By: 1rsties4life on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

First let me start by saying that I can't possibly claim the first ascent of this incredible splitter; however, I can claim that it is, "an incredible splitter!" This is the center crack in the face just left of the large, laser cut roof at the bottom of the cliff.

P1. Start with some hard to protect moves getting into the crack, then climb straight up with mostly hands for almost 200'. It ends with an angling hand traverse right to a good stance.

P2. Continue up the crack up with some 5.9 boulder problems for another 50'-60' and belay.

When rapping back down, we found evidence of some purple webbing at the top of the dihedral on the right side of the cliff, indicating that it had been climbed before.

Location

We lowered off of slings that I hope to replace with a bolted anchor soon, in an effort to keep the area clean of tat. Two 70 meter ropes will guarantee safe access to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack with small wired nuts for the start, then doubles to triples in hand-sized pieces for the crack.

Photos

Kevin P
Loveland
Kevin P   Loveland
Dooood, this crack goes on fooooreeevvver. It throws everything at you, hands, fingers, fists, weird, creepy, balancy moves and ends with a pretty cool hand traverse. Very steep and sustained, I felt is was low 10. Maybe no one move is harder than 5.9, but the difficulty does not let up, and there are multiple cruxes. Dec 6, 2015
1rsties4life
CO
 
1rsties4life   CO
 
I used to live in Fort Collins and know of you, although we have never climbed together we have climbed with some of the same people. That line you did looks awesome. Does it go out that insane roof at the bottom? Jan 27, 2012
morkel
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
I am. Who is this?

The corner is great, 5.9. I lead it again last weekend, cleaned it up again too. It does not take long for the shrubs to regrow.

I really doubt I made the first accent of this nice crack in 2005. Even then, I assumed it had been done. I've talked with a couple of people but don't have any info on earlier ascents. I don't recommend the second pitch of this route, not really a pitch at all; really dirty scrambling. Traversing off to the east at the fist belay is pretty reasonable. Then walk east, to the lower of two trees to a 100' rap (from the tree) into a gully.

I have a little project going on the central line that may get one bolt, the rest goes with gear. It too will be very good, 170' feet of nice climbing. Only about 10+, so not much of a project, but some cleaning is still necessary. Oct 21, 2011
1rsties4life
CO
 
1rsties4life   CO
 
Is this Steve from Fort Collins? I would like to make adjustments to the information for historical accuracy. What's that corner like? It looks awesome as well. I lowered the rating also since we were suffering from the brown bottle illness the day we climbed it. Thanks for the update. Oct 9, 2011
morkel
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
I climbed this route in 2005, and again today. Today, I did not see any "lowering slings". I did see some worn looking slings in a crevice near the top of the formation. This was at about 200 feet. Today we left lengths of rope around two trees to allow a single 60 m rope descent. In 2005, we left the purple webbing above the right dihedral for descent. The purple webbing was not in place today. After looking more closely at the formation today, it looks possible to down scramble to the north and west. My partner and I agreed the route felt 5.9. Oct 2, 2011

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