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Routes in Nancy's Rock

Borachone S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chance T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
De Gueo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dyne-"E"-Mite T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Get Along Cindy Cindy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hey Dude T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nipple, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stumpy S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Guns TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Allen Simons
Page Views: 1,458 total · 8/month
Shared By: allen simons on Jun 1, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

5.5 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube is a paved pullout on the north side of the road. Hike 30 yards up hill to the rock (Nancy's Rock). Start at the bottom of a large black section of rock, and climb up easy rock to the bulge and first bolt. Go up and left is 5.9, up and right is 5.6. Smear past two more bolts to the top.

Protection

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.7
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.7
Gear of a #0.75, #4 BD wire, and #0.5 Camalot may be used to supplement the bolts. Oct 1, 2011
Dave Bn
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Dave Bn   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
One 5.7ish move at the first bolt. The climbing up to the first bolt is fun but difficult to protect on layered and flaky rock. I found a #3 Camalot a great home between the third bolt and the anchor. Jul 16, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Rotten rock at the bottom allows some gear protection but with questionable reliability.

I think I used a 0.4 or 0.5 at the bottom and similar towards the top. The top is easy enough, even without cams - I mainly put it in because I had it and don't like to skip gear opportunities even if it seems easy enough to run out. Mar 29, 2015
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.6
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.6
Fun little lead, a few stoppers. not great rock at start. Jul 11, 2016

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