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Routes in Horseshead

Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. Hill, D. Rhode, 1994.
Page Views: 2,159 total, 23/month
Shared By: s.kimball on Mar 14, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is an outstanding trad route to a classic Colorado summit.

P1. Start in a right-facing dihedral with a clean handcrack to a small roof at 25 feet, 5.9. Best to traverse left some 50 feet up into a cool but blocky chimney. Belay on a nice ledge on the left, 120 feet.

P2. Do a great 5.10 finger/hand in a right-facing dihedral, then huff up the hand to OW 5.10-, #4 Camalot or bigger, then onto the summit block finish, 100 feet.

Scramble off to the east.


This is the steep, main line dropping from the OW forming the Horseshead's east ear.


Standard to #4 cam with extra #3 cam.
1rsties4life   CO
No need to scramble off anymore. A couple of years ago I installed a bolted anchor on a good ledge just to the climber's right of the summit. Now 2 raps gets you back to the ground. Mar 29, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Look at who is responsible for the FAs of the routes there, and it might tell you.
Obviously, the submitter of the routes seems to know something too.... Apr 19, 2012
HI everybody,

Does anyone know who is developing this area (The Horse's Head) and The Three Jewels? We just moved up to Storm Mountain last year and are thrilled to find Palisade Mountain. Does anyone know if there are any routes just East of the Horse's Head, besides the Temple of Tao? What about the rock face near the summit, up the second gully on the way to the Horse's Head? Does anyone know of climbers who live up on Storm Mountain?
Sarah Fritz Apr 18, 2012