Caddis Cliff Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 8,000 ft | 2,438 m |
GPS: |
40.42152, -105.22604 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 7,025 total · 32/month | |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 16, 2006 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Caddis Cliff is a small south-facing cliff on the north side of the river. Most of the rock is rather broken up, but two bolted routes and a moderate trad line have been done. A very nice arete and a small spire in the middle of the wall make the river crossing worth the effort. The arete and the trad line are listed in BG's guide. The crag gets enough sun to offer a pleasant side trip even in December.
Getting There
Drive East 4.7 miles from the Mall Road. Park 100 yards downstream from the crag in large pullout. Wade the river or wait until it freezes enough to walk across.
L->R:
A. Prince Nymph, 11+ R/X, 1p, TR or gear.
B. Glow Bug, 8 R, 1p, 100', gear.
C. San Juan Worm, 7 R, 1p, 60', TR or gear.
D. Unknown Spire, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. PMD, 9, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
F. Wooly Bugger, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
G1. Curving Corner, 8, 1p, 80', gear or TR.
G2. Orange Zonker, 9, 1p, 95', gear.
B. Glow Bug, 8 R, 1p, 100', gear.
C. San Juan Worm, 7 R, 1p, 60', TR or gear.
D. Unknown Spire, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. PMD, 9, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
F. Wooly Bugger, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
G1. Curving Corner, 8, 1p, 80', gear or TR.
G2. Orange Zonker, 9, 1p, 95', gear.
Weather Averages
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