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Routes in Caddis Cliff

Curving Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glow Bug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Orange Zonker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PMD T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prince Nymph TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
San Juan Worm TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Spire S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wooly Bugger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Elevation: 8,000 ft
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Caddis Cliff is a small south-facing cliff on the north side of the river. Most of the rock is rather broken up, but two bolted routes and a moderate trad line have been done. A very nice arete and a small spire in the middle of the wall make the river crossing worth the effort. The arete and the trad line are listed in BG's guide. The crag gets enough sun to offer a pleasant side trip even in December.

Getting There

Drive East 4.7 miles from the Mall Road. Park 100 yards downstream from the crag in large pullout. Wade the river or wait until it freezes enough to walk across.

L->R:

A. Prince Nymph, 11+ R/X, 1p, TR or gear.
B. Glow Bug, 8 R, 1p, 100', gear.
C. San Juan Worm, 7 R, 1p, 60', TR or gear.
D. Unknown Spire, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. PMD, 9, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
F. Wooly Bugger, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
G1. Curving Corner, 8, 1p, 80', gear or TR.
G2. Orange Zonker, 9, 1p, 95', gear.

8 Total Climbs

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boydpainting
Estes Park CO
boydpainting   Estes Park CO
The route names I have submitted are the names myself and the two or three people I climb here with use. No disrespect is intended to any FAs, and any info can be changed if need be. The route "Prince Nymph" may need a second or third opinion to dial in the rating. Two of us climbed it on TR and our average came out to 5.12b. Jan 27, 2010
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Allen, we were a bit rushed and I did not look for other routes upstream. Certainly a few other trads routes could have been done, but a survey from the creek did not reveal any other bolted routes. Dec 19, 2006
Nice photo! Are these the only two lines on the cliff? Looks like there could be several others. Allen Dec 18, 2006

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